EKVADOR – ECUADOR

Gradska katedrala u Kitu i spomenik devici Mariji na brdu-Metropolitan Cathedral and El Panecillo hill with Virgin Mary

Gradska katedrala u Kitu i spomenik devici Mariji na brdu-Metropolitan Cathedral and El Panecillo hill with Virgin Mary

Kito-ulice starog grada-Quito's historic centre

Kito-ulice starog grada-Quito’s historic centre

Muzej u Kitu-The Guayasamin Museum in Quito

Muzej u Kitu-The Guayasamin Museum in Quito

Narodno pozori+íte Sukre-Sucre National Theatre (2)

Narodno pozori+íte Sukre-Sucre National Theatre (2)

Oswaldo Guayasamin

Oswaldo Guayasamin

Pijaca-Market Otavalo

Pijaca-Market Otavalo

Spomenik Devici Mariji-Monument of Virgin Mary

Spomenik Devici Mariji-Monument of Virgin Mary

Pijaca-Otavalo Market

Pijaca-Otavalo Market

Miodrag Colic na kongresu-At the Congress of the ICS

Miodrag Colic na kongresu-At the Congress of the ICS

Lokalni muzicari-Local musicians

Lokalni muzicari-Local musicians

Svaka noga na drugoj polulopti-Every foot on different half of the globe

Svaka noga na drugoj polulopti-Every foot on different half of the globe

Crkva u glavnom gradu-A church in the capital

Crkva u glavnom gradu-A church in the capital

Ekvador se nalazi na ekvatoru. To je jednostavno. Zato se tako i naziva,
mada ima još mnogo zemalja koje preseca ekvator, ali imaju drugačija imena.
Ekvador, dakle, ima tu privilegiju da je nazvan prema imenu te zamišljene
linije koja preseca Zemlju, a simbolično je obeležena žutom trakom na 0° 0′
0″ geografske širine, koja deli severnu i južnu poluloptu. Mitad del mundo
ili središte sveta obeleženo je velikom spomenikom sa zemaljskom kuglom na
vrhu, unutar koga se nalazi muzej u kome su prikazana geografska dostignuća.
Sve je to smešteno u jednom lepom kompleksu, sa puno manjih spomenika
zaslužnim svetskim geografima.
Glavni grad Kito nalazi se na velikoj nadmorskoj visini od oko 2800 metara i
odiše tipičnim južnoameričkim indioskim folklorom, pomešanim sa ukusom novog
vremena u velikim hotelima i avenijama. Španski kolonijalni duh, međutim,
potpuno preovlađuje u katedralama i starim delovima grada, sa trgovima i
fontanama prekrivenim patinom, kao da će se iz njih pojaviti španski
osvajači u svojim viteškim oklopima. Istorijski centar grada je jedan od
najlepših u Južnoj Americi i zato je prvi, kao najočuvaniji, zajedno sa
Krakovom u Poljskoj, došao na listu Uneskove kulturne baštine. U njemu se
nalaze Trg nezavisnosti sa gradskom katedralom i palatom Karondelet kao
sedištem Vlade, pozorište Sukre nazvano po velikom borcu za slobodu, crkve
San Francisko i Santo Domingo, kao mnoge druge kolonijalne građevine, ali i
obične kuće iz tog perioda i strme popločane ulice koje gledaju na brdo El
Panecillo i statuu Device Marije koja se uzdiže iznad grada.
Lokalno indiosko stanovništvo mirno sedi na kamenim stepenicama starih
trgova, kao i brojnim pijacama koje odišu lokalnim koloritom. Pijaca Otavalo
u istoimenom gradiću ispunjena je tipičnim rukotvorinama, kao što su
pokrivači, torbice, pončo ogrtači, džemperi i šalovi od alpake, prsluci,
kape, pletene narukvice… Žene u živopisnim narodnim nošnjama bakarnog tena
setno se osmehuju, nudeći vam sve te proizvode, sa uzdržanom upornošću koja
je često neodoljiva. Bakica u beloj čipkanoj bluzi, sa šeširom na glavi,
drži povodac na čijem je kraju nestašno prasence, a drugom rukom nudi krišku
lubenice. Svuda miriše hrana koja se sprema u velikim kružnim tepsijama, dok
ritmično odzvanjaju zvona male bele kolonijalne crkve sa svetloplavim
kamenim lukovima oko prozora i ogromnom palmom u svojoj pozadini.
Kito je smešten u planinskoj oblasti la sierra, ali raznoliki Ekvador
poseduje još i deo pacifičke obale la costa gde se nalazi najveći grad
Gvajakil, tropsko područje el oriente na istoku zemlje, gde počinje
amazonska džungla, kao i ishodište Darvinove teorije, arhipelag Galapagos.
Geografska, ali i kulturološka raznolikost ove zemlje, čine je zbog toga
jedinstvenom, kako na južnoameričkom kontinentu, tako i u celom svetu.

Oktobar 2004.
___________________________________________________________

Ecuador is at the equator, that’s simple. That’s how it got its name, even
though there are many other countries that the equator runs through, but
they have got different names. So, only Ecuador has the privilege to be
named after this imaginary line that cuts the Earth in half into southern
and northern hemisphere, and is symbolically marked with a yellow line along
the 0° 0′ 0″ latitude. Mitad del mundo, or the centre of the world, is
marked by a gigantic monument  with the Planet Earth on top, housing a
museum showcasing major geographical discoveries. All this is in a lovely
complex with numerous smaller statues of the world’s most distinguished
geographers.
The capital, Quito, is at a high altitude, 2800m, and is infused with
typical Latin American folklore of the Indios, mixed with the taste of
modern times reflected in large hotels and avenues. However, the Spanish
colonial spirit prevails entirely in cathedrals and the old city, its
squares and fountains basking in their old charm as though the Spanish
conquistadors would appear any moment in their heavy armours. The historic
city centre is one of the most beautiful in Latin America and being well
preserved as it is, it was listed among the first, along with Polish Krakow,
as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In the city centre you will find
Independence Square with the Metropolitan Cathedral and Carondelet Palace
which is the seat of Government; also the Sucre Theatre named after a a
great freedom fighter, the churches of San Francisco and Santo Domingo, as
well as many other colonial buildings. Even the plain houses from that
period are attractive, set on steep cobbled streets overlooking the hill El
Panecillo with the statue of the Virgin Mary towering over the city.
The Indios peacefully sit on the stony stairs in squares, or in numerous
markets that are full of local charm. The markets, like the one in the small
town of Otavalo, abound in typical handicraft, such as covers, purses,
ponchos, jumpers and scarves made of alpaca, gillets, hats and woven
bracelets…Women with copper tans, clad in picturesque national costume
offer you all these products, with reticent perseverance, which is often
irresistible. A granny in a laced white blouse, hat on her head, is holding
a mischievous piglet on a leash in one hand, and with the other she is
offering a slice of watermelon. The smell of food, cooked in large circular
tins, is everywhere, while the bells chime rythmically on a small white
colonial church with blue arches; a huge palm is in the background.
Quito is situated in the mountainous area, la sierra, but versatile Ecuador
also boasts part of the Pacific rim, la costa, a tropical region in the East
of the country, el oriente, where the Amazonian jungle begins, as well as
the Galápagos Islands, the bedrock of Darwin’s theory of species.
The geographical and cultural diversity of this country make it unique on
the South American continent as well as in the entire world.

October 2004

Galapagos – Galápagos

Dzinovska galapagoska kornjaca-Galapagos giant tortoise

Dzinovska galapagoska kornjaca-Galapagos giant tortoise

Foke i morski lavovi na gradskoj plazi - Seals and sea lions on the city beach

Foke i morski lavovi na gradskoj plazi – Seals and sea lions on the city beach

Foke i morski lavovi na gradskoj plazi-Seals and sea lions on the city beach

Foke i morski lavovi na gradskoj plazi-Seals and sea lions on the city beach

Gradic Puerto Ajora-Small town Puerto Ayora

Gradic Puerto Ajora-Small town Puerto Ayora

Iguana

Iguana

Prodavnica suvenira u nacionalnom parku-Souvenir shop in the National Park

Prodavnica suvenira u nacionalnom parku-Souvenir shop in the National Park

Ulaz u nacionalni park-Entrance to the National Park

Ulaz u nacionalni park-Entrance to the National Park

Duga nad ostrvom Santa Kruz-A rainbow over Santa Cruz Island

Duga nad ostrvom Santa Kruz-A rainbow over Santa Cruz Island

Kao poseban ekološki entitet, nacionalni park Galapagos je veoma udaljen od
obale Ekvadora i, mada se nalazi na ekvatoru, ovde je često kišovito i
prohladno. Posebne biljne i životinjske vrste u ovom prirodnom rezervatu
bezbrižno uživaju u svojoj zaštićenosti, podvrgnute naučnim istraživanjima i
stalnim nedoumicama da li je Čarls Darvin bio u pravu ili nije. Bez obzira
na odgovor, uživanje je posmatrati ogromne kornjače u njihovom rezervatu,
iguane ili stotine foka i morskih lavova na gradskom kupalištu i ostalim
plažama ostrva San Kristobal i Santa Kruz. Igrati se s mladuncima foka na
plaži, milovati njihovu baršunastu kožu  divna je zabava i poseban, ali
veoma kratak doživljaj, jer majka brzo potrči da bi ih zaštitila.
Za Galapagos se kaže da je to zemlja nevinosti i prirodna laboratorija
evolucije. Kada su prvi ljudi pristigli na ova ostrva, ptice su slobodno
doletale do njih, a životinje nisu imale nikakav strah. Odsustvo ljudi i
velikih predatora stvorilo je beskrajno poverenje među njima koje je danas
ponovo uspostavljeno i kada svi žive u harmoniji.
Povratak avionom kompanije TAME (Línea Aérea del Ecuador) odnosi sa sobom
svu opuštenost koju pruža ovaj arhipelag snova, ali i ostavlja veliki broj
nedoumica Darvinove inspiracije.

Oktobar 2004.

___________________________________________________________

As a separate ecological entity, Galápagos National Park is very remote from
the coast of Ecuador, and even though it is situated at the equator, here
the weather is often rainy and cold. Unique plant and animal species enjoy a
carefree protected existence in this natural reserve, yet they are under
scientific observation and subject to an eternal discussion on whether
Charles Darwin was right or not. Regardless of the answer, it is a pleasure
to watch gigantic turtles in the marine reserve, iguanas and hundreds of
seals and sea lions at the city beach as well as other beaches on San
Cristobal and Santa Cruz islands. Playing with baby seals on the beach,
stroking their velvety skin is great fun, but also a special, yet very short
experience – mummy seal runs fast to protect her young.
It is said for Galápagos that it is a land of innocence and a natural
laboratory of evolution. When the first people reached these islands birds
would fly to them freely, and animals had no fear. The absence of people and
huge predators created infinite trust between animals – something that has
been recreated again so that everyone lives in harmony with everyone else.
The return flight on the local company TAME aircraft (Línea Aérea del
Ecuador) dispels all the tranquility of this dreamy archipelago, but most of
the dilemmas Darwin faced at the time still remain.

October 2004

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