EGIPAT – EGYPT – جمهورية مصر العربية

Abu Simbel

Abu Simbel

Egipatski muzej u Kairu-The Egyptian Museum in Cairo

Egipatski muzej u Kairu-The Egyptian Museum in Cairo

Faluke na plavom Nilu-Felucca sailing boats on the blue Nile (3)

Faluke na plavom Nilu-Felucca sailing boats on the blue Nile (3)

Hotel u Luksoru-Winter Palace Hotel in Luxor

Hotel u Luksoru-Winter Palace Hotel in Luxor

Hram Karnak-Karnak Temple

Hram Karnak-Karnak Temple

Ispred dżamije-In front of the mosque

Ispred dżamije-In front of the mosque

Ispred hotela u Hurgadi-In front of a hotel in Hurghada

Ispred hotela u Hurgadi-In front of a hotel in Hurghada

Orijentalna radnja-Oriental shop

Orijentalna radnja-Oriental shop

Pogled na Nil-A view of the Nile

Pogled na Nil-A view of the Nile

Prodavac pomorandżi-The orange vendor

Prodavac pomorandżi-The orange vendor

Sa egipatskom porodicom u hramu Kom Ombo-With Egyptian family in Kom Ombo temple

Sa egipatskom porodicom u hramu Kom Ombo-With Egyptian family in Kom Ombo temple

Sfinga-Sfinx

Sfinga-Sfinx

Stari hotel u Asuanu-Old Cataract Hotel in Aswan

Stari hotel u Asuanu-Old Cataract Hotel in Aswan

Ulice glavnog grada-The streets of Cairo

Ulice glavnog grada-The streets of Cairo

Velika dżamija sultana Hasana u Kairu-Sultan Hassan Mosque in Cairo

Velika dżamija sultana Hasana u Kairu-Sultan Hassan Mosque in Cairo

Dzamija u hramu Luksor-The mosque in Luxor Temple

Dzamija u hramu Luksor-The mosque in Luxor Temple

Faluke na plavom Nilu-Felucca sailing boats on the blue Nile

Faluke na plavom Nilu-Felucca sailing boats on the blue Nile

Hram-Temple Kom Ombo

Hram-Temple Kom Ombo

Old Cataract Hotel

Old Cataract Hotel

Opusteni Egipcanin-Relaxed Egyptian

Opusteni Egipcanin-Relaxed Egyptian

Scena iz Gize sa obrisima Kaira u daljini-A scene from Giza with contours of Cairo in the distance

Scena iz Gize sa obrisima Kaira u daljini-A scene from Giza with contours of Cairo in the distance

Sfinga-Sfinx

Sfinga-Sfinx

U Dolini kraljeva-In the Valley of Kings

U Dolini kraljeva-In the Valley of Kings

U spektaklu Zvuk i svetlost slušam priču Ričarda Bartona o istoriji ove zemlje, dok Sfingu obasjava nekoliko boja, a zvuci dočaravaju dolazak Kleopatre, njene svite, i potom egipatske vojske. Posle toga se penjem preko ogromnih i okrnjenih kamenih kocki do polovine Keopsove piramide, jer tada, početkom osamdesetih godina XX veka, to još nije bilo zabranjeno, mada ne i preporučljivo. Udobno smešten na toplom kamenu, posmatram Kairo u daljini i tako dočekujem zoru. Zeleni neon na džamijama meša se sa rumenilom neba, dok sa brojnih minareta odjekuje jutarnji poziv vernicima. Taj detalj iz mladosti je moj najlepši doživljaj Kaira, koji sam kasnije opevao u jednoj pesmi, u vremenu kad sam pisao poeziju. Došao sam tada u Egipat samo nekoliko nedelja nakon gledanja filma Smrt na Nilu, kada sam rekao sebi da tu zemlju moram videti. Zamišljao sam scenu iz filma kada učesnici, s poznatim detektivom na čelu, izlaze iz čamca – faluke i ulaze u stari kolonijalni hotel Old Cataract i pitao se da li je u Asuanu boja Nila zaista tako plava? Uverio sam se da jeste, a mnogo godina kasnije i posmatrao tu čudesnu reku s prozora istog hotela. Blagi povetarac preko modroplavih talasa Nila nosi stotine faluki oko ostrva Elefantina, na kome se nalazi hram. Zalazak sunca uz takav prizor beskrajna je sreća i zadovoljstvo za sva čula, ako se tome doda i kafa sa ukusom kardamona, poslužena na balkonu.
Spuštanje niz reku brodom od Luksora do Asuana, dozivljaj egipatske istorije u Dolini kraljeva, hramovi Karnak i Luksor, ili, konačno, monumentalni Abu Simbel i piramide u Gizi, sve je to smešteno duž ove najznačajnije afričke reke, kako nekada, tako i sada. Egipatski muzej u Kairu daje konačnu sliku jedne od najvećih svetskih civilizacija, kao, nažalost, i mnogi poznati svetski muzeji i privatne zbirke, u kojima je završio dobar deo ovog kulturnog blaga.
Aleksandrijski kvartet Lorensa Darela mnogo više govori o Aleksandriji, sasvim posebnom gradu, Port Said u delti Nila krije sve avanturističko-ljubavno-političke spletke prolaska kroz Suecki kanal, a Sinajska gora čuva  manastir Svete Katarine kao svoju teško dostupnu tajnu. Crveno more je za uživanje.

Jul 1983.
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I listen to Richard Burton’s story about the history of this country in the spectacle ‘Sound and Light’, where the Sphinx changes colour under different lights and the sounds announce the arrival of Cleopatra, her retinue and the Egyptian army. Following that, I climb the huge chipped blocks half way up the Great Pyramid, because in the early eighties of the last century, that was still allowed, although it was not recommended. Cosy on a warm stone, I watch Cairo in the distance and wait for dawn. Green neon light from the mosques blends with the purple of the sky, while the muezzin’s call to the faithful can be heard from numerous minarets. This scene, from my youth, is my most memorable experience of Cairo and I described it in a poem, at the time when I was writing poetry. I visited Egypt only weeks after watching Death on the Nile, when I promised myself I had to see that country. I was imagining the scene where the protagonists, with the famous detective in the lead, leave the felucca boat and enter the old colonial hotel, The Old Cataract, while wondering if the Nile was really all that blue in Aswan. I actually found out that it was blue, many years later as I was watching this wondrous river from a window in that same hotel. A mild breeze carries hundreds of felucca boats on the azure waves of the Nile around the island of Elephantine, with its temple. The sunset in that setting is a feast for all senses, especially if you have been served coffee with cardamom and you are enjoying it on the balcony.
Cruising down the river from Luxor to Aswan, experiencing the history of Egypt in the Valley of the Kings and Queens, the temples of Karnak and Luxor, or finally the monumental Abu Simbel and the Pyramids in Giza, all of this is to do with the Nile, this most important African river. Same now as ever. The Egyptian Museum in Cairo gives a comprehensive image of one of the world’s biggest civilisations, as do, sadly, many other museums and private collections where a lot of this cultural heritage has ended.
The Alexandria Quartet by Lawrence Durrell tells us a lot about Alexandria, a very unique city; Port Said at the Delta of the Nile conceals many machinations linked to adventure, love or politics, unavoidable when passing through the Suez Canal, and the Mount Sinai guards the secret of Saint Catherine’s Monastery. The Red Sea is a delight to be enjoyed.

July 1983

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