DŽIBUTI – DJIBOUTI – جمهورية جيبوتي

Upozorenje-A warning

Upozorenje-A warning

Centralni gradski trg Rembo-Central square Rimbaud place

Centralni gradski trg Rembo-Central square Rimbaud place

Domaci ambijent-Feeling at home

Domaci ambijent-Feeling at home

Gradska dzamija u Dzibutiju-Djibouti city mosque

Gradska dzamija u Dzibutiju-Djibouti city mosque

U prolazu kraj jedne od gradskih dzamija-Passing by one of the city mosques

U prolazu kraj jedne od gradskih dzamija-Passing by one of the city mosques

U setnji kraj dzamije Hamudi-Walking by Hammoudi mosque

U setnji kraj dzamije Hamudi-Walking by Hammoudi mosque

Uzurbani deo grada-Busy part of town

Uzurbani deo grada-Busy part of town

Vreme je za kat-It's time for khat

Vreme je za kat-It’s time for khat

Aerodromska zgrada-The airport building

Aerodromska zgrada-The airport building

Centralni gradski trg Rembo-Central square Rimbaud place

Centralni gradski trg Rembo-Central square Rimbaud place

Dom kulture-Theatre du Palais du peuple

Dom kulture-Theatre du Palais du peuple

Francuski kulturni cenat Artur Rembo-French Cultural Centre Arthur Rimbaud

Francuski kulturni cenat Artur Rembo-French Cultural Centre Arthur Rimbaud

Gradska avenija-City avenue

Gradska avenija-City avenue

Jedna od gradskih d+żamija-One of the city mosques

Jedna od gradskih d+żamija-One of the city mosques

Luksuzni hotel-Luxury hotel

Luksuzni hotel-Luxury hotel

Uzurbani deo grada-Busy part of town

Uzurbani deo grada-Busy part of town

Tačno u 13 h na jedini ovdašnji aerodrom sleće avion sa tovarom svežeg kata, blago opijatne biljke, čije se lišće žvaće satima dok postepeno proizvodi laganu obamrlost i osećanje neke nepostojeće sreće. Taj avion sačekuju brojni kamioni, koji dragoceni tovar isto popodne raznose po celoj zemlji, posle čega za većinu muškog stanovništva taj dan lagano prelazi u opojni san. Kat je biljka koja u Džibutiju i Jemenu predstavlja nešto što nema zamenu i što se mora neprestano žvakati dok se polako ne otupi ili dobije rak sluzokože usta. Kažu da bi jedan nedolazak tog aviona značio i pad vlade, jer je tolika zavisnost od te biljke koja nedužno raste negde u Etiopiji, a zatim se svakodnevno poseca i odmah šalje avionima do zavisnika širom regiona.

Druga retkost ove zemlje jesu već legendarni pripadnici Legije stranaca, koji su nekada, bar za mene, bili pojam neustrašivosti, a danas ih posmatram na bazenu hotela Kempinski Palace kao pripite dečake koji liče na sve, osim na opasne momke na koje francuska država računa u kriznim situacijama. Oni čuvaju takozvani Rog Afrike i ulaz u Adenski zaliv iz Crvenog mora, a vidim da su im se pridruzili i americki marinci i razni drugi čuvari svetskog reda i mira. Što je njih više, to je mir nestabilniji. Verovatno ga ne čuvaju na pravilan način, ali ko bi to objasnio velikim silama koje se unose u svoju veličinu pokušavajući da zavedu red na svetskoj sceni.

Narod ove malene zemlje stupio je tako u suživot sa ovim čuvarima mira i kao da ih posmatra iz vizure sažvakanog kata i sveopšteg siromaštva, želeći da im kaže: “Udelite nešto i nama ako nas već ne ostavljate na miru”, ali znaju da te reči ne dopiru ni do koga i da je duša đavolu već odavno prodata. Ostaje samo kat kao uteha i nada. A imaju i lepu zastavu, svetloplavo-svetlozeleno-belu, sa crvenom zvezdicom na belom polju. Možda je ona tračak nade za ovu zemlju čija je strateška pozicija više nesreća nego prednost. Mislim da znam bar još jednu takvu zemlju. Moju.

Decembar 2002.

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Precisely at 1:00 pm an airplane will land at the only existing airport here, carrying a load of fresh Khat, a mild opiate plant whose leaves are chewed for hours while it slowly induces stupor and a feeling of elusive happiness. Numerous trucks await this airplane in order to distribute this precious load across the country, after which, soon, this day disappears into an intoxicated dream for the majority of the male inhabitants. Khat is a plant irreplaceable in Djibouti and Yemen, a plant that has to be chewed until you become dull or develop a mouth cancer. It is said that if this airplane did not turn up, the government would fall, such is the addiction to this plant which grows, innocently, somewhere in Ethiopia, only to be cut daily and dispatched by air freight to the addicts across the entire region.

Another peculiarity of this country is the Foreign Legion, a legendary outfit who used to be, at least for me, a symbol of bravery; today I watch them at the poolside of Kempinski Palace Hotel, where they appear more like drunken boys than the dangerous types that the French state can count on in a crisis situation. They are protecting the so-called Horn of Africa and entry from the Red Sea into the Gulf of Aden; now I see that they have been joined by the American marines and other keepers of peace and world order. The more of them, the more unstable the peace. They are probably not keeping the peace properly, but who can explain that to the superpowers, obsessed with their own might, while trying to impose the world order.

So the people of this country have learned to co-exist with these keepers of peace and watch them through a haze of khat chewing and overwhelming poverty, and they just want to tell them: ‘Give us something too, if you are not leaving us alone’. But they know that no one would hear these words and that the soul has been sold to the devil already. There is only khat which remains as a consolation and hope. And there is a pretty national flag: light blue-light green-white with red star on the white bit. Maybe it gives a glimmer of hope to this country whose strategic position is more a curse than an advantage.

I know at least one more country in a similar position – my own.

December 2002

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