DANSKA – DENMARK – DANMARK

Centar glavnog grada-The centre of the capital

Centar glavnog grada-The centre of the capital

Centralni trg u Kopenhagenu-The City Hall Square, Copenhagen - Copy

Centralni trg u Kopenhagenu-The City Hall Square, Copenhagen – Copy

Danska kraljica u rodjendanskoj promenadi-The Danish Queen on the occasion of her birthday

Danska kraljica u rodjendanskoj promenadi-The Danish Queen on the occasion of her birthday

Fontana Gefion je najveci spomenik u Kopenhagenu-The Gefion Fountain (Gefionspringvandet) is the largest monument in Copenhagen

Fontana Gefion je najveci spomenik u Kopenhagenu-The Gefion Fountain (Gefionspringvandet) is the largest monument in Copenhagen

Gradska vecnica-The Copenhagen City Hall

Gradska vecnica-The Copenhagen City Hall

Kanali Kopenhagena-Nyhavn, the seventeenth century waterfront, with its colourful buildings

Kanali Kopenhagena-Nyhavn, the seventeenth century waterfront, with its colourful buildings

Kisa nije sprecila demonstrante-The rain didn't stop the protesters

Kisa nije sprecila demonstrante-The rain didn’t stop the protesters

Kraljevska palata Amalienborg - Royal Palace Amalienborg

Kraljevska palata Amalienborg – Royal Palace Amalienborg

Kraljevska palata Amalienborg-Royal Palace Amalienborg and the Frederik's Church

Kraljevska palata Amalienborg-Royal Palace Amalienborg and the Frederik’s Church

Mala sirena-The Little Mermaid

Mala sirena-The Little Mermaid

Spomenik Andersenu-The monument of Andersen

Spomenik Andersenu-The monument of Andersen

Spomenik danskom industrijalcu Tietgen-u-Statue of Danish industrialist Tietgen

Spomenik danskom industrijalcu Tietgen-u-Statue of Danish industrialist Tietgen

Ulaz u poznati zabavni park Tivoli-The entrance to famous Tivoli Park

Ulaz u poznati zabavni park Tivoli-The entrance to famous Tivoli Park

Jedna od najmanjih zemalja Evrope istovremeno je i jedna od najvećih na
svetu, jer Danskoj zvanično pripada i ogromna teritorija Grenlanda. Svojom
lepotom, zemlja Andersena zaista podseća na njegove bajke, a posebno Mala
sirena, koja graciozno sedi na kamenu usred vode, pored istorijskog parka
Kastelet u Kopenhagenu, glavnom gradu Danske. Nekoliko puta je ostajala bez
glave ili ruke, više puta premazivana raznim bojama ili, čak, obučena u
burku. Mala sirena je, na svojoj steni, ipak opstajala skoro sto godina,
ponosna i lepa, prkosna i srećna, jer je, iako nije pronašla svog princa,
simbol nacije. Ipak, ovih dana je nema na svom mestu, prvi put i privremeno.
Otputovala je čak u Kinu, na Svetsku izložbu u Šangaju 2010. godine gde će
biti deo danskog paviljona. Otišla je tamo tajnim putevima zbog svoje
bezbednosti, da neko ponovo ne bi pokušao da je otme, prebije, rani njeno
telo ili ga možda obuče. Odnosi Danaca sa islamskim zemljama nisu baš
najbolji posle serije satiričnih crtanih filmova i karikatura proroka
Muhameda.
Zabavni park Tivoli, u centru Kopenhagena, jedan je od najstarijih u Evropi.
Pun starinskog šarma,  u jedinstvenoj atmosferi, sa svojim otvorenim
pozorištima, neobičnim fontanama, koncertnim podijumima iz prošlog veka,
restoranima u kineskim pagodama i dvorcima na jezeru, preko čijih se
površina smenjuju spektri boja, predstavlja glavnu atrakciju grada.
Kopenhagen je svetska ekološka metropola, sa najzdravijim urbanim
okruženjem. Luka i kanali, sa raznobojnim brodićima, čine samo deo
privlačnosti ove prestonice, u kojoj kao da svi voze bicikle i tako prenose
svetu poruku borbe za očuvanjem životne sredine, do koje je Dancima
očigledno veoma stalo. Sve staro i tradicionalno brižljivo se čuva i neguje,
kao u bajci, pa se tako 2. aprila, na Andersenov rođendan, ljudi obuku u
kostime njegovih likova i ponosno šetaju gradom.
Veliki broj galerija i neobičnih muzeja nalazi se u Kopenhagenu, kao i
kraljevske palate i dvorci, a kad padne mrak i zavlada romantična atmosfera
u gradu, Hamlet i duh njegovog oca kao da bi trebalo da se odnekud pojave.
Umesto toga, iz pivare “Karlsberg” poteku reke piva ka obližnjim kafeima i
restoranima u živahnom noćnom provodu mladih Danaca.
Nešto je radosno u državi Danskoj!

Septembar 2003.
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One of the smallest countries in the world, it is at the same time one of
the largest, as the Greenland territory officially belongs to Denmark. The
land of Hans Christian Andersen is as beautiful as in his fairytales, and
that is especially true of the Little Mermaid, graciously sitting on a rock
in the sea, close to Kastellet Park, in Copenhagen, Denmark’s capital.
Several times the Little Mermaid lost her head or arm, she was painted over
in different colours, even fitted a burkha. Yet the Little Mermaid
persevered for almost a hundred years, proud and upright on her rock,
beautiful and spiteful, and even though she did not find her prince, happy
to have remained the symbol of a nation. However, these days she was not to
be seen in her usual place, for the first time and only temporarily, she was
sent away. She travelled all the way to China, to the 2010 World Expo in
Shanghai, where she will feature in the Danish pavilion. Her route was kept
a secret for her own security, so that no one could attempt to abduct her,
assault her, damage her body or dress her. Following the series of satirical
cartoons and caricatures of Prophet Muhammad, the relations between the
Danes and the Islamic nations have not been the best.
Tivoli amusement park in the centre of Copenhagen is one of the oldest in
Europe. It is Copenhagen’s main attraction – this park has the charm of the
old days and a unique atmosphere, open air theatres, unusual fountains,
concert podiums from the last century, restaurants in Chinese pagodas and
castles on the lake which reflect a multitude of colours.
Copenhagen is the world’s eco capital with the healthiest urban setting. The
port and many canals with multicoloured boats are only part of the overall
charm of this city in which everyone appears to be riding a bike, sending a
message to the world about saving the environment that Danes obviously care
so much about. Everything that is old and traditional is carefully preserved
like in a fairytale and thus on the 2nd of April, on Andersen’s birthday,
people dress in costumes from his time and proudly walk around the city.
In Copenhagen you will find a great number of galleries and quirky museums,
as well as royal palaces and castles, and when the darkness descends and a
romantic atmosphere prevails, you would almost expect Hamlet and his
father’s ghost to appear out of nowhere. Yet instead, torrents of beer start
flowing from the ‘Carlsberg’ brewery into the adjacent cafés and restaurants
and the lively nightlife of the Danish young begins.
Something is cheerful in the state of Denmark!

September 2003

Grenland – Greenland – Grønland – Kalaallit Nunaat

Letnji pejzaz-A summer landscape

Letnji pejzaz-A summer landscape

Letnji pejzaz-Summer landscape

Letnji pejzaz-Summer landscape

Pejzaz-A landscape

Pejzaz-A landscape

Raznobojne drvene kuce i puno pasa-Colourful wooden houses and many dogs

Raznobojne drvene kuce i puno pasa-Colourful wooden houses and many dogs

Eskimska deca-Eskimo children

Eskimska deca-Eskimo children

Eskimski ples-Eskimo dance

Eskimski ples-Eskimo dance

Grenlandsko groblje-A Greenland cemetery

Grenlandsko groblje-A Greenland cemetery

Hotel u Kulusuku na istocnoj obali-A hotel in Kukusuk on the east coast

Hotel u Kulusuku na istocnoj obali-A hotel in Kukusuk on the east coast

Mali broj Danaca razmišlja o ogromnoj teritoriji koja im pripada i koja se naziva Grenland. Tamo se potpuno drugačije živi od bilo kog mesta u toj zemlji. U beskrajnim prostranstvima beline i čistih glečera, žive siromašni nomadi kojima kao da ništa nije potrebno od danskog bogatstva. Oni su srećni sa svojom sušenom ribom i krznima foka, sa svojim vernim psima koji ih prate u belom bespuću, u lovu koji je njihovo jedino zanimanje.
Bili smo u poslednjem avionu koji je na Grenland krenuo sa Islanda, u septembru, jer posle toga vremenske prilike ne pogoduju avionskom saobraćaju.
Kulusuk je mestašce na istočnoj obali Grenlanda, u kome su montažne barake hotelski smeštaj, dok se po okolnim brdima nalaze rasute raznobojne drvene kućice. Ispred njih su razbacane životinjske kože, čopori polarnih pasa i grupice eskimske dece. Tu je i oskudno opremljena drvena crkvica. Negostoljubivo bespuće i, s druge strane, neobična i divlja lepota mora po kome plutaju ledene sante i bregovi. Grenland je kao veliki kontinent na Severnom polu, koji se može naseliti jednog dana kad više ne bude mesta za život u drugim delovima planete. Samo ime Grenland kaže da je to Zelena zemlja, iako je zelenilo tamo više nego retkost. Ipak, ekološka čistoća njegovih kristalnih voda čini ga pravom postojbinom Male sirene. Možda bi joj bilo hladno među fokama, ali sigurno bi se brzo navikla na očaravajuću lepotu ove prirode, lepotu pred kojom bi i sama zanemela i skočila u vodu.
Ili bi, možda, pronašla svog zaleđenog princa.

Septembar 2003.
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Very few Danish people even think about the enormous territory of Greenland which belongs to Denmark. The life there is completely different from any place in Denmark. Infinite white space and clear glaciers are home to poor nomadic people who do not seem to need any of Denmark’s wealth. They are content with the dried fish and seal fur and their faithful dogs that follow them through the white wasteland, joining them in hunting, which is these people’s only vocation.
We were in the last available plane that left Iceland for Greenland, in September, as after that the weather conditions make flights impossible. Kulusuk is a small place on the Eastern coast of Greenland, offering prefab bunkhouses as hotel accommodation, while multicoloured wooden cabins are scattered along the nearby hills. In front of them you can find animal hide, packs of polar dogs and groups of Eskimo children. A modestly equipped church is also there. Inhospitable wasteland, on one hand and on the other, unusual beauty of the wild sea with floating glaciers and icebergs. Greenland is like a huge continent in the North Pole that could be inhabited one day when there is no more space in other parts of the planet. The name itself – Greenland – implies that this is land is green, but greenery here is more than a curiosity. However, the environmental cleanliness makes Greenland the true homeland of the Little Mermaid. Maybe she would be cold amongst the seals, but soon she would get used to the mesmerising beauty around her, the beauty which would make her gasp and jump into the sea.
Or perhaps she would find her ice prince here.

September 2003

 

 FARSKA OSTRVA – FAROE ISLANDS – Føroyar

Malo utvrdjenje i svetionik Skansin-A small fortress and a lighthouse Skansin

Malo utvrdjenje i svetionik Skansin-A small fortress and a lighthouse Skansin

Luka u Torsavnu-Torshavn port

Luka u Torsavnu-Torshavn port

Luka u Torsavnu - Torshavn port

Luka u Torsavnu – Torshavn port

Katedrala u glavnom gradu-Torshavn Cathedral or Havnar Kirkja

Katedrala u glavnom gradu-Torshavn Cathedral or Havnar Kirkja

Selo Midjvagur na ostrvu Vagar - Midway village on the Vagar Island

Selo Midjvagur na ostrvu Vagar – Midway village on the Vagar Island

Farski pejzaz-Faroese landscape

Farski pejzaz-Faroese landscape

Zaliv-A bay

Zaliv-A bay

Ulica u starom delu glavnog grada-Street on Tinganes, in Torshavn old town

Ulica u starom delu glavnog grada-Street on Tinganes, in Torshavn old town

Selo Midjvagur na ostrvu Vagar-Midway village on the Vagar Island

Selo Midjvagur na ostrvu Vagar-Midway village on the Vagar Island

Prirodna izolacija-Natural isolation

Prirodna izolacija-Natural isolation

Ponocna zabava u glavnom gradu Torsavnu-A midnight party in the capital Torshavn

Ponocna zabava u glavnom gradu Torsavnu-A midnight party in the capital Torshavn

Ova neobična ostrva izviru iz mora negde na polovini puta između vrha Britanije i Islanda. Farska ostrva su oduvek odisala tajnovitošću severnih nordijskih puteva, u kojoj priroda pokazuje svoje čudne oblike. Ostrva skoro da nemaju drveća, trava raste na krovovima kuća – objasnili su mu da je to stari sistem čuvanja toplote – a spuštanje aviona uskim dolinama zahteva veliku pilotsku veštinu. Pored toga, skoro sve ovce su ovde crne, na jarkozelenim livadama u koje ulaze fjordovi i koje se završavaju strmim liticama. O njih se obrušavaju neprijateljski talasi i na njima galebovi i morski papagaji svijaju gnezda.
Ova autentična ostrva ušla su, po mnogim istraživanjima, u red najprivlačnijih destinacija za one koji su potrazi za jedinstvenim mestima na svetu. “Ovde nema palmi” kaže se u jednoj brošuri o Farskim ostrvima, ali nema ni drugog drveća. Ovde žene vladaju, kako mi objasnjava moj Facebook prijatelj, fotograf Andrija Ilić, koji je u glavni grad Toršavn pošao za supugom. Čudan je to narod, kaže, i, po mnogo čemu, mnogima nerazumljiv, ali je to nasleđe ostalo još od vikinških vremena kada su oni, iz sasvim nepoznatih razloga, ostali u ovoj negostoljubivoj sredini. Jaki vetrovi, kiša i tamni oblaci su redovna vremenska pojava, tako da je, u izostanku bilo kakvih događanja, utešno uzimanje velikih količina alkohola postalo opravdano i društveno prihvatljivo. Teška pijanstva kreću vikendom posle ponoći, uz veliku buku po centru glavnog grada, ali bez nereda. Pijanstvo je ovde samo sebi cilj.
Pokolj kitova u zalivima Farskih ostrva je tradicionalna i dobro organizovana pojava. Stotinama godina se jata pilot kitova, koji žive u vodama severnog Atllantika, brodićima sateruju u plićake zaliva gde se znalački i za najkraće vreme ubijaju, a meso na ravne časti razdeli svom malobrojnom stanovništvu ostrva na kome se sve to dešava. Zanimljivo je da u to vreme svaka aktivnost prestaje i svi, čak i deca iz škola, dolaze da tome prisustvuju. Još je zanimljivije da je ceo događaj vekovima regulisan zakonima koji ga unapređuju, od toga da šef policije rukovodi merenjem kitova i pravilnom raspodelom mesa koje ne sme da se prodaje, do ubijanja kita koje traje maje od pola minuta. Ipak, prizor krvave vode čitavog zaliva užasava savremeni svet koji se pita da li je u ovim vremenima i u izobilju hrane takva pojava stvarno opravdana. Nekada je od toga lokalnom stanovništvu zavisio opstanak, ali danas su ova ostrva veoma bogata i mnogi ovde dolaze da žive, bez obzira na hladnoću i mrak. Posebno ako su dobri fudbaleri, jer Farani, iako malobrojni, imaju i prvu i drugu ligu i neobuzdanu strast za ovim sportom.
Stigao sam ovde u vremenu “belih noci”, kada san ionako teško dolazi.
Pijane noći činile su ga nemogućim.

Jun 2012.
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These unusual islands emerge from the sea somewhere half way between the top of Great Britain and Iceland. The Faroe Islands have always been shrouded in Nordic mystery where nature exhibits its most unusual shapes. These islands have barely any trees and the grass grows on roofs – I was told that that is an old system of heat conservation –  while landing planes in narrow gorges requires top piloting skills. Amongst other curiosities, almost all sheep here are black and against a backdrop of striking green meadows, penetrated by fyords, which in turn end with steep cliffs, they provide for a fascinating scenery. The cliffs are constantly assaulted by menacing waves and they house nests of birds such as sea gulls and puffins.
According to various research, these unspoilt islands are among the most attractive destinations for those seeking unique places in the world. ‘There are no palms here’, says one brochure about Faroe Islands, but actually there are no other trees either. ‘Women rule here’ my Facebook friend, a photographer Andrija Ilić explains to me; he followed his wife to the capital, Tórshavn. ‘These people are strange’ he says, ‘and incomprehensible to others in many ways’, but their heritage goes back to the Viking times, when the Vikings, for reasons known only to them, decided to settle in this inhospitable environment. Strong winds, rain and dark clouds are all normal weather conditions; in the absence of any other happening, consuming large quantities of alcohol for comfort has become justifiable and socially acceptable. Heavy drunkenness occurs after midnight at weekends accompanied by a lot of noise in the city centre, but without incidents. Just getting drunk is a goal in itself.
Whale slaughtering in the bays of the Faroe Islands is a traditional and well organised event. Pilot whales that inhabit the waters of the North Atlantic have been persecuted for centuries; they are driven down into shallow waters by hunting boats where they are slaughtered with precision and in the shortest possible time and then the meat is divided equally among the inhabitants of the island. It is interesting that at that time any other activity stops and everyone comes to watch, even children from school. It is even more interesting that whale hunting has been regulated by local laws for centuries, which have improved it. The chief police constable oversees the measuring of the whales and the appropriate sharing of the meat which cannot be sold; killing of the whales must take less than one minute. Yet bloody waters washing across the entire bay horrify the modern world – they are asking themselves if today, with all the abundance of food, such an occurrence is necessary. Once upon a time the lives of the local people depended on whale hunting, but today these islands are rich and many people come to live here despite the cold and the dark. Especially if they are good football players, because Faroese, even though not numerous, have first and second division teams and an unstoppable passion for the game.
I arrived here at the time of the ‘white nights’, when sleep comes with difficulty. Drunken nights made it completely impossible.

June 2012

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