CHAD – CHAD – TCHAD

Centar glavnog grada-The city centre of the capital

Centar glavnog grada-The city centre of the capital

Kako je izgledao predak Tumai-The outfit of the Tumai ancestor

Kako je izgledao predak Tumai-The outfit of the Tumai ancestor

Mala posta u Ndzameni-A small post office in N'Djamena

Mala posta u Ndzameni-A small post office in N’Djamena

Mural protiv nasilja nad decom-Mural on violence against children

Mural protiv nasilja nad decom-Mural on violence against children

Narodni muzej-National Museum

Narodni muzej-National Museum

Odbegli krokodil-A runaway crocodile

Odbegli krokodil-A runaway crocodile

Prasnjava gradska ulica-A dusty street

Prasnjava gradska ulica-A dusty street

Prvi i sadasnji predsednik-The first and current President

Prvi i sadasnji predsednik-The first and current President

U poslovnici aviokompanije-In the Air Chad office

U poslovnici aviokompanije-In the Air Chad office

Zene na motociklu-Women on a mororbike

Zene na motociklu-Women on a mororbike

Zivot na reci Sari-Life on the Chari River

Zivot na reci Sari-Life on the Chari River

Tumai je čovekoliko biće, staro sedam do deset miliona godina, senzacionalno antropološko otkriće koje ukazuje na to da, verovatno, svi potičemo sa afričkog tla. Pronađeno je upravo u ovoj zemlji, kojoj je to skoro jedini ponos i nada da se o njoj bar nešto dobro čuje u svetu. Zato se nazvala kolevkom čovečanstva.
Inače, tu se uglavnom dešavaju državni udari, a pobunjenici nadiru iz Sudana čim prođe kišna sezona da bi bar nekako mogli da se probiju do glavnog grada Ndžamene. Iako je veličina zemlje nesagledivih dimenzija, oni ipak uspevaju da se probiju celom njenom širinom, ali nikako im ne polazi za rukom da smene vlast. Time se sigurno rukovodi iz Pariza, a verovatno još nije pravi trenutak zbog posebnih odnosa sa susednom silom, Libijom. Zanimljivo je da je pukovnik Gadafi bio veliki prijatelj oba predsednika, i Čada i Sudana, iako iz Sudana dolaze pobunjenici, kao i veliki broj izbeglica iz provincije Darfur. Sve to čini ovu zemlju kriznim žarištem i stecištem raznih humanitarnih radnika i mirovnih snaga. Zato je neko dobro primetio da je ovaj narod, iako dobar kao skoro svi narodi, u suštini veoma zaplašen ovim događajima, koji ih snalaze mimo njihove volje.
Prašina i pustinja vas stalno okružuju, a često i vreli vetar koji žari lice i crvenkasti pesak koji ulazi u svaku poru. Kamile vešto pretrčavaju put, kao i stada koza. Velika reka Šari ovde je izvor života. Sve se u njoj pere i svi se u njoj kupaju. Ndžamenu je najbolje okarakterisao Amerikanac, koji je sedeo do mene u avionu, kad sam ga upitao šta ima u tom gradu. Kratko je rekao dust (prašina). Iz oblaka crvene prašine u gradu promoli se poneka džamija, crkva, muzej koji ne radi ili ulica u kojoj živi predsednik i koja se zbog toga često zatvara za saobraćaj kad on prolazi. U zapuštenom zoološkom vrtu, nadomak grada, jedan osrednji krokodil slobodno šeta stazom jer je nekako opet utekao, kaže upravnik, i žali se da nema sredstava za  bezbednost vrta. Nema ih ni za neke mnogo važnije, priznaje, dok se ja pitam kako li to izgleda kada lav i hijena pronađu svoj put ka slobodi. Ipak, suviše je vrelo da bi se odvažili na takav korak, iako je očigledno lak. Moja sreća, jer posetilaca ovde odavno nije bilo, čini se.
Na aerodromu stotine francuskih vojnika, američka leteća tvrdjava B52 i dugo čekanje na pisti dok sleću mali borbeni avioni, kao i beli avioni Ujedinjenih nacija iz kriznih područja, u kojima vlada humanitana katastrofa. Na naslovnoj strani lokalni L’Observateur piše:“Da li je rat na pomolu?”
Srećom, odlazim na vreme.

Mart 2009.
_______________________________________________________________________________

Toumaï is a humanoid, seven to ten million years old, a sensational anthropological discovery indicating that we have probably all originated in Africa. The discovery was made in this country, and has made Chad hopeful and proud that it has been mentioned in relation to something good, for once. That is why it has called itself ‘the cradle of human civilisation.’
Otherwise, Chad is mostly a setting for coups d’état and the rebels who keep advancing from Sudan as soon as the rainy season is over, so that they can somehow get through to the capital of N’Djamena. Even though the country is absolutely huge, the rebels still manage to break through the length of its borders, however, they have not been able to overthrow the current government yet. The appropriate timing for this is surely arranged by Paris, and it is still not the right moment, because of a special relationship between France and Libya, Chad’s neighbouring country. It is interesting to note that Colonel Gaddafi has been a great friend of the presidents of both Chad and Sudan, despite so many rebels coming from Sudan as well as large numbers of refugees from Darfur. All this is making Chad a critical zone and gathering place for all sorts of humanitarian workers and Peace Corps. That’s why it has been noted that the people of Chad, good like any other people, are essentially living in fear of all the troubles that have befallen them against their will.
Dust and desert are always around you and so is the scorching wind burning your skin and the reddish sand that gets into every pore.  Camels as well as goat herds deftly run across the dirt road. The big River Chari is the main source of life. Everyone bathes in it; all things are washed in it. The best description of the capital N’Djamena was made by an American sitting next to me on the plane. When I asked him what was there to see in the city, he curtly replied – dust. Occasionally from the huge cloud of red dust, a mosque, a church or a museum that is closed, would appear in sight; or the street in which the President lives, so it gets closed to traffic whenever he is passing through. In a neglected zoo garden at the outskirts of the city, a medium size crocodile freely ambles on the pathway –‘he has escaped again!’ laments the Zoo manager, saying he simply does not have the funds for appropriate security. He does not have the funds for even more important things, he confesses, while I wonder what it is like when a lion or a hyena finds their way to freedom.  I guess it is too hot for these animals to take the crucial step and escape, even though it seems quite simple. That is quite lucky I think, as visitors are very scarce here and my presence must have been registered by the carnivores.
At the airport I see hundreds of French soldiers, American flying fortress B52s and we are made to wait for a long time on the runway, while small fighter planes as well as the white UN planes from humanitarian crisis zones land. The headline of the local paper L’Observateur is: ‘Are we on the brink of war?’
Luckily, I leave on time.

March 2009

Leave a Reply