BUTAN – BHUTAN – འབྲུག་ཡུལ་

Budisticki svestenici prate ceremoniju-Buddhist monks watching the ceremony

Budisticki svestenici prate ceremoniju-Buddhist monks watching the ceremony

Ceremonija u budistickom manastiru-A ceremony in Tashichho Dzong

Ceremonija u budistickom manastiru-A ceremony in Tashichho Dzong

Klanac Docula sa 108 stupa u magli-Dochula pass with 108 stupas in the mist

Klanac Docula sa 108 stupa u magli-Dochula pass with 108 stupas in the mist

Ljute papricice se suse na krovu-Red chillies drying on the roof

Ljute papricice se suse na krovu-Red chillies drying on the roof

Mali hram u oblacima-A small temple in the clouds

Mali hram u oblacima-A small temple in the clouds

Manastir Paro-Paro Dzong

Manastir Paro-Paro Dzong

Manastir Punaka - Punakha Dzong

Manastir Punaka – Punakha Dzong

Manastir Tigrovo gnezdo - The Tiger's Nest Monastery

Manastir Tigrovo gnezdo – The Tiger’s Nest Monastery

Manastir Tigrovo gnezdo-The Tiger's Nest Monastery

Manastir Tigrovo gnezdo-The Tiger’s Nest Monastery

Manastir Tigrovo gnezdo-Tiger's Nest Monastery

Manastir Tigrovo gnezdo-Tiger’s Nest Monastery

Mladenci sa familijom ispred ulaza u Gangtej palatu-hotel-The newlyweds with family at the entrance of the Gangtey Palace-Hotel

Mladenci sa familijom ispred ulaza u Gangtej palatu-hotel-The newlyweds with family at the entrance of the Gangtey Palace-Hotel

Ples sa maskama - A dance with masks

Ples sa maskama – A dance with masks

Ples sa maskama- A dance with masks

Ples sa maskama- A dance with masks

Ples sa maskama-A dance with masks

Ples sa maskama-A dance with masks

Prodavnica u gradicu Paro-A shop in Paro town

Prodavnica u gradicu Paro-A shop in Paro town

Ritualne zastavice-Ritual flags

Ritualne zastavice-Ritual flags

Stare Butanke meditiraju u parku-Old Bhutanese women meditating in the park

Stare Butanke meditiraju u parku-Old Bhutanese women meditating in the park

Stupa u glavnom gradu Timpu-The Memorial Chorten in Thimphu

Stupa u glavnom gradu Timpu-The Memorial Chorten in Thimphu

U setnji pored hrama-Walking by the The Druk Wangyal Lhakhang Temple

U setnji pored hrama-Walking by the The Druk Wangyal Lhakhang Temple

Unutar zidina manastira Paro-Inside Paro Dzong

Unutar zidina manastira Paro-Inside Paro Dzong

Zastitnik kuce-Protecting the house

Zastitnik kuce-Protecting the house

Svadba Cuki i Dzigmea- Chukie and Jigme wedding

Svadba Cuki i Dzigmea- Chukie and Jigme wedding

Zvanična imena Butana su još i Zemlja Olujnog Zmaja i Zemlja Miroljubivog Zmaja. I sve je u znaku tog zmaja: od aviokompanijeDruk Air (druk znači zmaj), do državnih simbola i suvenira. I taj zmaj je dobar kao što su i ljudi u ovoj zemlji dobri, ljubazni, uvek nasmejani i spremni da pomognu. Mahajana budizam ih je tome naučio i oni verno slede principe ne samo Bude, već i njegovog naslednika, Drugog Bude, koji se zove Guru Rimpoče. Zajedno sa ujediniteljem Butana iz XVII veka, njih trojica su središni likovi svakog hrama i manastira, koje ovde nazivaju dzong. Ne bi trebalo zaboraviti ni kralja, jer Butan je parlamentarna monarhija, koja ima i voli svog kralja, trenutno ovog najmlađeg. On ima dvadeset devet godina i veoma je omiljen u narodu. Pojavi se on često na lokalnoj zabavi, odigra košarku, ali pokaže i autoritet, koji je nasledio od oca, četvrtog butanskog kralja, koji se u svojim ranim pedesetim godinama odrekao prestola u korist sina. Odreći se prestola kada si još omiljen, znači sačuvati pozicije i za neke loše dane kada će butanskom narodu biti potreban njegov savet. Kralj ovde nije forma, njega su izabrali bogovi, a narod, koji sluša njegovu reč, srdačno ga dočekao.  On sâm predlaže demokratiju i učestvuje u njoj, jer on je, jednostavno, voljen i prihvaćen.

Razmišljam tako o ovoj neobičnoj kraljevini u podnožju Himalaja dok sa nekom čudnom, i za mene ne tako svojstvenom, lakoćom savladavam uspon od tri hiljade metara ka najsvetijem mestu u Butanu, koje se naziva Tigrovo gnezdo. Manastir na litici iznad provalije, u kome je u VIII veku boravio Drugi Buda, sada je mesto za hodočasnike sa kojima lagano hodam i od lepe kraljeve rođake Chukie-Om Dorji slušam istoriju ovog mesta. Počinju da promiču kapi kiše dok, opčinjeni, ulazimo na ceremoniju i sedamo pored mladih sveštenika u tamnocrvenim odorama; oni izgovaraju svoje molitve u ritmu koji im zadaje starešina hrama. Pokušavam da napravim figuru lotosov cvet, ali mi godine i građa ne dopuštaju. Možda je to ipak namenjeno ovim malim Budama, koji jedino tako i znaju da sede, meditiraju i razmišljaju o svojim božanstvima. Jedno tako neobično božanstvo je izvesni Božanski ludak, koji je samo voleo piće, žene i zabavu, pa mu nisu verovali da je to što jeste. Da bi se dokazao, u trenutku ludila, spojio je glavu koze i telo krave. Danas je to nacionalna životinja takin, koja živi samo ovde, i to sada u rezervatu jer je ima u malom broju. Čuda su ovde stvarnost koja nastavlja da živi na oslikanim zidovima dzong-ova i u glavama ovih dobrih ljudi, koji žive u zemlji iz bajke. Onoj u kojoj iza sedam ogromnih planina spava olujni zmaj.  Onoj, koja je sabijena izmedju dva džina, Indije i Kine, čiji zmajevi ne spavaju, već vrebaju ovog malog i miroljubivog zmaja.

Godinu dana kasnije, na svadbi Chukie & Jigme u Gangtey palati, koja je pripadala prvom butanskom kralju, imam utisak da je cela zemlja izašla na ceremoniju venčanja, koju vodi starešina jednog od najvećih manastira, Paro Dzong-a. Stotine belih šalova prebacuju se preko mladenaca, koji u svojoj tradicionalnoj odeći dočekuju goste, pozdravljaju princeze Butana i susednog Sikima, ali i lokalno stanovništvo, koje je došlo da im čestita i donese darove. Ovo je jedinstveno i najlepše venčanje na kome sam ikada bio, kao što je i sama zemlja jedinstvena i drugačija.

Jednom rečju: Zemlja božanstava koja hodaju po njoj.

Jun 2010.

________________________________________________________________

The other official names of Bhutan are ‘The Land of the Thunder Dragon’ and ‘The Land of the Peaceful Dragon’. The symbol of this dragon appears everywhere, starting with their airline Druk Air (‘druk’ meaning dragon), through to State insignia and souvenirs. The dragon is as kind as the people in this country, amiable, always smiling and ready to help. Nurtured by the Mahayana Buddhism and its teachings, they faithfully follow the way of the Buddha and his successor, the Second Buddha Guru Rimpoche. Together with the national leader from the 17th century who unified Bhutan, the two Buddhas appear as a central leitmotif in all the shrines and temples, called dzongs. However, the King should not be forgotten, as Bhutan is a parliamentary monarchy and its people love and cherish their young King. He is only 29 years of age and much loved by his people. He often appears at local parties, or plays a game of basketball, but when needed, he wields his authority, inherited from his father, the 4thKing of Bhutan, who abdicated when in his early fifties in favour of his son. To give up the throne at the peak of popularity means thinking of the future times that may be challenging, when the retired King’s advice will be much valued. The King is not just a formal figure here, he has been chosen by the Gods, so people listen to his words and greet him warmly. He himself proposed the introduction of democracy and participates in it; in return, he is simply loved and accepted.

I keep thinking about this unusual kingdom at the foot of the Himalayas, while I negotiate the 3000 metre incline surprisingly easily, on the way to the most sacred place in Bhutan, called the Tiger’s Nest. The temple at the edge of an abyss, home to the Second Buddha in the 8th century, now attracts many pilgrims, some of whom I have joined myself. We walk slowly together, while a beautiful cousin of the king, Chukie-Om Dorji, relates the history of this place. The rain starts to drizzle while we, as if enchanted, join the ceremony in the temple and sit next to the young monks dressed in burgundy robes. They chant in the rhythm set by a senior monk. I try to sit cross-legged in the lotus position, but my age and my build get in the way. Maybe this is really meant only for these little Buddhas, for whom this is the usual sitting position while they meditate and think about their deities. One such unusual deity is a certain Divine Madman who only liked drinking, women and fun, so no one believed that he was divine. In order to prove himself, in a moment of divine madness, he put a goat’s head and a cow’s body together and created a takin. Today this is the country’s sacred animal which lives only here, in special reservations as there are so few of them. Here, miracles are a reality which exist on the painted walls of the dzongs and in the minds of these lovely people who inhabit a land of fairy tales.  The land where the Thunder Dragon sleeps beyond seven hills. The land wedged between two giants, India and China, whose dragons do not sleep but prey over this little peaceful dragon.

A year later, I am at the wedding of Chukie & Jigme at the Gangtey Palace which in the past belonged to the First King of Bhutan. I have the impression that the entire country has come to the wedding ceremony, performed by the High Priest of Paro Dzong, one of the largest monasteries. Hundreds of white scarves are thrown on to the newly-weds who, clad in their traditional robes, greet the guests – the princesses of Bhutan and neighbouring Sikkim, but also the local people who came to congratulate them and offer them gifts. This is the most beautiful wedding I have ever been to, as unique and unusual as the country itself.

In other words, this is the country of the deities and god-like people.

June 2010

Leave a Reply