BURUNDI – BURUNDI

Biciklisticka higijena-Bicycle hygiene

Biciklisticka higijena-Bicycle hygiene

Centar Budzumbure-The city centre of Bujumbura

Centar Budzumbure-The city centre of Bujumbura

Cuvaj se side-Beware of AIDS

Cuvaj se side-Beware of AIDS

Dzoging na obali jezera-Jogging by the lake

Dzoging na obali jezera-Jogging by the lake

Istocnoafricki supermarket-An East African supermarket

Istocnoafricki supermarket-An East African supermarket

Jezerska idila-A lake idyll

Jezerska idila-A lake idyll

Mirna plovidba jezerom Tanganjika-A quiet boatride on the lake Tanganyka

Mirna plovidba jezerom Tanganjika-A quiet boatride on the lake Tanganyka

Najvece drvo u centru grada-The largest tree in the city centre

Najvece drvo u centru grada-The largest tree in the city centre

Nilski konj u jezeru Tanganjika-A hyppo in Tanganyka lake

Nilski konj u jezeru Tanganjika-A hyppo in Tanganyka lake

Pravoslavna crkva u Budzumburi-An Orthodox church in Bujumbura

Pravoslavna crkva u Budzumburi-An Orthodox church in Bujumbura

Priobalne aktivnosti-Lake shore activities

Priobalne aktivnosti-Lake shore activities

Ribarski camci-Fishing boats

Ribarski camci-Fishing boats

Savremeni dizajn aerodromske zgrade-The modern design of the airport building

Savremeni dizajn aerodromske zgrade-The modern design of the airport building

Transport banana-Transport of bananas

Transport banana-Transport of bananas

Vencanje uz tradicionalne bubnjeve-A wedding with traditional drummers

Vencanje uz tradicionalne bubnjeve-A wedding with traditional drummers

Veseli rasta camdzija-A cheerfull rasta boat man

Veseli rasta camdzija-A cheerfull rasta boat man

Prenaseljenost, nezaposlenost i nepismenost su tužne odlike jedne od
najsiromašnijih nacija na svetu. Smeštena u srcu istočne Afrike i među
najmanjima na Crnom kontinentu, ova zemlja je, osim zaostalosti, bila
suočavana i sa tragičnim ratovima i masovnim istrebljenjima naroda, koja su
posledica političkih igara belgijskih kolonizatora.
Iako sukob plemena Hutu i Tutsi potiče jos iz XV veka, do kulminacije dolazi
u poslednjim decenijama XX veka, kada je ceo svet obišla tragična priča o
genocidu i  egzodusu većinskog naroda Hutu u susedne zemlje. Današnji
predsednik Burundija je pripadnik tog naroda, a njegovu bistu i spomenik
nezavisnosti, koju je ova zemlja stekla 1962. godine, čuvaju jake policijske
snage u centru glavnog grada Bužumbure, ili jednostavno Buže. Čak ni
fotografisanje nije dozvoljeno.
Lagano plovim mirnim vodama jezera Tanganjika i iz čamca posmatram veselu
igru nilskih konja, čija se ogromna i naizgled nezgrapna tela u vodi vešto
kreću. Ovo jezero je drugo po veličini u Africi i jedno od najvećih na
svetu, kao i drugo po dubini – posle Bajkalskog jezera. Usko je i veoma dugo
i, duž svojih obala, spaja četiri afričke zemlje. Na jednoj od njih, poznati
engleski novinar – istraživač Henri Morton Stenli, pronašao je svog nestalog
sunarodnika, Dejvida Livingstona. Istorijski susret odigrao se 1871. godine
kraj jedne velike stene na obali ovog jezera. Britansko Nacionalno
geografsko društvo moglo je konačno da odahne na vest da je Livingston ziv.
Nedeljom pre podne stanovnici Bužumbure izlaze na obale svog jezera i tada
velike peščane plaže postaju sportska igrališta. Vitka crna tela neumorno
trče za loptom, fudbalskom ili odbojkaškom, dok se na drugom delu plaže
priprema hrana, peru bicikli, sluša muzika i pomaže belcima oko vodenih
sportova. Ti belci su u najvećem broju pripadnici Ujedinjenih nacija, čije
su ogromne baze smeštene u blizini jezera. Pravih turista je veoma malo, u
očekivanju boljih vremena za ovu zemlju koja bi, makar samo lepotama jezera,
mogla da ih privuče. Do unutrašnjosti je skoro nemoguće stići, jer ili nema
puteva, ili oni u kišnoj sezoni postaju neprohodni.
Kao i u susednoj Ruandi, tako se i na licima ljudi u ovoj zemlji ne bi moglo
primetiti kakve su tragedije preživeli, ili kako danas siromašno žive. Bar
ne u glavnom gradu i na obalama poznatog jezera Tanganjika. Osmeh i dobro
raspoloženje uvek su prisutni, ili bar želja da vam pomognu. Uz dobro
spremljenu lokalnu ribu mukeke i ritmičnu afričku muziku kraj bazena
najboljeg mesta u gradu, a to je Hôtel Club du Lac Tanganyika, u ovoj zemlji
sve izgleda lepše.
Možda su se Tutsi i Hutu narodi konačno sastali kraj one stene, kao nekada
Stenli i Livingston. Možda će, kao u susednoj Ruandi, konačno početi da žive
srećno kao što izgledaju i možda jednoga dana neće biti potrebne tolike
snage Ujedinjenih nacija da im održavaju mir. Možda, ali ipak ne tako skoro.

Mali orkestar kraj bazena melanholično izvodi poznati evergrin Feelings, u
kome primećujem malo ali suštinski promenjene reči: “Feelings. trying to
forget feelings of hate”…. prave reči za ljude iz ove zemlje, koji žele da
zaborave osećanje mržnje i zamene ga ljubavlju.

Februar 2011.
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Overpopulated, with high unemployment and illiteracy rates, sadly Burundi is
one of the poorest countries in the world. Apart from being undeveloped,
this country at the heart of East Africa, and amongst the smallest on the
continent, has suffered from tragic wars and genocides caused by the
political games of Belgian colonizers.
Even though the hostilities between the Tutsi and Hutu tribes date back to
the 15th century, the heaviest fighting occurred in the last decades of the
20th century when the tragic story of genocide and exodus of the Hutu
majority into neighbouring countries, travelled around the world. Today’s
president of Burundi is a Hutu. His statue and the monument of independence,
which this country won in 1962, are heavily guarded by the police in the
centre of capital Bujumbura, or simply Buja. Even photography is not
allowed.
I slowly cruise the calm waters of Tanganyika Lake and from the boat I can
see hippos playfully frolicking in the water, their seemingly clumsy bodies
moving deftly. This is the second largest lake in Africa and one of the
largest in the world, as well as second deepest after the Baikal Lake. It is
very narrow and long and its shores bring four African countries together.
On one of the shores, Henry Morton Stanley, a famous British explorer and
journalist, found his missing compatriot David Livingstone. This historic
meeting happened in 1871 on a big rock at this lake’s shore. The British
National Geographic Society could finally sigh a breath of relief that Dr
Livingstone was alive.
On a Sunday morning the people of Bujumbura go out to the lake and the long
sandy beaches become sports fields. Slender black bodies run after the ball,
whether it is a football or a netball, whilst on the other end of the beach,
food is being cooked, bicycles are being cleaned, the music is on and white
people are being helped with water sports. Those white people are mostly UN
staff as their huge bases are situated along the lakeside. Real tourists are
few and far between, but there is hope that better times are coming for
Burundi, which should attract many tourists just with the beauty of the
lake. It is almost impossible to reach hinterland as the roads are either
non-existent or they become impassable during the rain season. Just like in
neighbouring Rwanda, people’s faces do not bear traces of terrible tragedies
they suffered, nor the poverty they face every day. At least not in the
capital city and on the famous Tanganyika Lake. Good humour and a smile are
omnipresent as well as a genuine wish to help visitors. With nicely cooked
local fish mukeke and rhythmic African music at the poolside of the best
place in the city – Hôtel Club du Lac Tanganyika – everything seems nicer in
Burundi.
Maybe Tutsis and Hutus finally met near that rock, like Stanley and
Livingstone a long time ago. Maybe they will, just like in neighbouring
Rwanda, start to live happily together (and not just seem to be happy), and
maybe one day the UN forces will not be necessary anymore in order to
preserve their peace. Maybe one day, but perhaps not so soon.
A small orchestra is playing on the poolside, a famous evergreen song
Feelings and I notice a small, but crucial change in the lyrics “Feelings.
trying to forget feelings of hate”….proper words for people who want to
forget the feeling of hate and replace it with love.

February 2011

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