BRAZIL – BRAZIL

Pogled na Rio de Zaneiro-A view of Rio de Janeiro

Pogled na Rio de Zaneiro-A view of Rio de Janeiro

Prodavac gambora na plazi-Selling fresh prawns on the beach

Prodavac gambora na plazi-Selling fresh prawns on the beach

Spoj crne i bele reke u Amazon-Black and white waters of the Amazon coming together

Spoj crne i bele reke u Amazon-Black and white waters of the Amazon coming together

Statua Hrista na brdu Korkovado iznad Rija-Christ the Redeemer on the Corcovado hill

Statua Hrista na brdu Korkovado iznad Rija-Christ the Redeemer on the Corcovado hill

Tajna vecera na Kopakabani-The Last Supper at the Copacabana beach

Tajna vecera na Kopakabani-The Last Supper at the Copacabana beach

Tamnoputa lepotica na plazi-A dark-skinned beauty on the beach

Tamnoputa lepotica na plazi-A dark-skinned beauty on the beach

Teatro Amazonas u Manausu-Teatro Amazonas in Manaus

Teatro Amazonas u Manausu-Teatro Amazonas in Manaus

Turisticko pleme u Amazoniji-A tourist tribe in the Amazon region

Turisticko pleme u Amazoniji-A tourist tribe in the Amazon region

Vodopadi Iguasu-Iguacu Falls

Vodopadi Iguasu-Iguacu Falls

Zalazak sunca na plazi Ipanema-Sunset at the Ipanema beach

Zalazak sunca na plazi Ipanema-Sunset at the Ipanema beach

Amazon kao more-Amazon just like the sea

Amazon kao more-Amazon just like the sea

Devojcica sa lenjivcem na Amazonu-A girl with a sloth on the Amazon

Devojcica sa lenjivcem na Amazonu-A girl with a sloth on the Amazon

Favela u Riju-A favela in Rio

Favela u Riju-A favela in Rio

Hotel u Amazoniji-A hotel in the Amazon region

Hotel u Amazoniji-A hotel in the Amazon region

Mala zabava na Amazonu-A little entertainment on the Amazon

Mala zabava na Amazonu-A little entertainment on the Amazon

Maestro Ivo Pitangi je harizmatična ličnost svetske plastične hirurgije i jedan od osnivača estetske hirurgije, koja se u celokupnom svetu povezuje sa njegovim imenom. U apartmanu na poslednjem spratu klinike Pitangi , koja je smeštena u zalivu Botafogo u Rio de Žaneiru, razgovaramo o njegovom životnom putu, susretima s poznatim ličnostima koje je operisao (princeza Margareta, Niki Lauda), životnim nagradama koje je dobijao.
Rio je grad stalnih vibracija ritmova sambe i bosanove, tako da izgleda kao da se mladi ljudi kreću u tom ritmu. Oni, na žalost, danas manje slušaju Karlosa Žobima i druge legende bosanove, ali ti zvuci kao da su zauvek opčinili grad, njegove plaže Kopakabanu i Ipanemu kao najpoznatije, ali i ostale plaže, po kojima ponosno hodaju lepe mulatkinje i zanosno njišu kukovima, baš kao što je opevano u pesmi Devojka sa Ipaneme. Prema tome, jasno je zašto je Brazil kolevka estetske hirurgije, zato što lepotice ceo dan provode na plaži, gde bi uvek trebalo da izgledaju zanosno, a vreme, sunce i neodoljiva brazilska hrana čine svoje – uzimaju telima svežinu i dodaju nepotrebne obline. I zato se u skoro svim uličicama, u mirnom zalivu Botafogo, nalaze klinike u kojima se ta svežina vraća, kilogrami oduzimaju, a godine brišu.
Brazil je neodoljiv, kao i njegove mulate. On vam sve pruža, ali vam, ako ste neoprezni,  može i sve oduzeti. Favele iznad Rija pružaju sliku drugog Brazila, u stvari njegovo naličje. Ipak, turistički obilazak tih naselja, favela tours, dočarava simpatičnu sliku onome ko tu ne živi, ko obilazi nešto egzotično i siromašno, uz nezaobilaznu misao: „Pa toga ima i kod nas“. Ovde, međutim, to ima neke druge razmere, kao u Apdajkovom romanu Brazil, u kome se prepliću sudbine ljudi koji žive u faveli sa životom izvan nje i ostalim krajevima te zemlje.
A te krajeve teško je opisati, jer izgledaju kao ceo jedan kontinent sa više vremenskih zona i mnogo naroda različitog porekla: čistih Evropljana, starosedelaca i mešavine nastale vekovnim strujanjem stanovništva na ovom prostoru i njihovih sudbina.
Dopada mi se mekoća njihovog govora, koji svojom melodikom kao da nema veze sa izvornim portugalskim, on je sam pesma. Brazil je tropska lepota amazonske džungle, beskrajnih plaža koje se pružaju od Rija do Ekvatora, džinovskih vodopada Iguasu na tromeđi sa Argentinom i Paragvajem, kolonijalnih crkvi u mestima sa najlepšim nazivima, kao što je Belo Horizonte ili Porto Alegre.
U Brazilu sve živi i kad umire, sve se kreće bez trenutka zastoja. Kažu da je život u dva najpoznatija brazilska grada podeljen: Sao Paulo radi, a Rio uživa. Možda je zaista tako, jer je Sao Paolo privredni centar zemlje i jedna ogromna „džungla na asfaltu“, ali i grad u kome Brazilci žive stvarni život, koji je sam po sebi veoma težak. Više mi se dopada sever Brazila, u centru Amazonije, gde iz hidroaviona posmatram susret bele i crne reke, Solimões i Rio Negro, koje se kod Manausa sastaju i prave najveću reku na svetu, Amazon, ali je uzbudljivo i južno od Rija, gde Ivo Pitangi ima svoje malo ostrvo, na koje mu dolaze prijatelji, gde voli da roni, piše knjige i ponekad slika.
Uživanje u Ipanemi pokazalo mi se u jednom trenutku kao sudbinski zaokret, upozorenje i nagoveštaj kraja. Igra u velikim talasama, koji su me nosili izmedju svojih vrhova i dna, postala je najcrnja slutnja u trenutku kada više kao da nisu želeli da me puste. Umor je činio svoje i ja sam odlazio sve dalje od obale. U tom času se na plaži pojavila devojka, moj životni spas. Tada je to bila moja devojka sa Ipaneme.
Danas je to moja supruga.

Avgust 2006.
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Maestro Ivo Pitanguy is a charismatic character well known in the world of plastic surgery and also one of the founders of aesthetic surgery which is widely associated with his name throughout the world.  We are sitting in his apartment on the top floor of the Pitanguy clinic in Rio de Janeiro’s Botafogo Bay, talking about his life, the celebrities he operated on (Princess Margaret, Niki Lauda) and the life achievement awards he received.
Rio is a city pulsating with the incessant rhythms of Samba and Bossa nova where young people seem to be moving around to its beat. Unfortunately, these days they do not listen much to the legendary Carlos Jobim and his contemporaries, but the underlying rhythm of Bossa nova has for ever enchanted this city, its famous beaches such as Copacabana and Ipanema, and all the other ones, where beautiful mulatta women walk proudly, seductively swinging their hips, just like in the song The Girl from Ipanema. No wonder that  the origin of aesthetic surgery is in Brazil; its beautiful women spend long days on the beach and need to look perfect at any moment, but passing of time, the sun and Brazil’s irresistible cuisine all have adverse effects – they take away the youthfulness and add unwanted kilos. That is why the narrow streets of the peaceful Botafogo Bay hide numerous clinics, where youthfulness is restored, extra kilograms are taken away and age is erased.
Brazil is irresistible, just like its mixed mulatta women. There is so much to be had, but if you are not cautious, you can lose everything. Favelas above Rio present a different picture of Brazil, actually its reverse. Yet, the Favela tours bring about an impression of a likeable, almost exotic, but poor place, followed by an unavoidable thought in a tourist’s head: ‘But I have seen this at home too.’ However, the poverty here has a different dimension, just like in John Updike’s novel Brazil, where those living in favelas cross path with people living outside them, as well as in other parts of Brazil, and their fates become intertwined.
Those other parts of Brazil are difficult to describe, they appear as an entire continent in itself, with several time zones and peoples of various origin: pure Europeans, the indigenous peoples, and the mixture of the two created through the flow of people across the country, through centuries, their life stories becoming one.
I like the softness of their speech which is very melodious and does not really resemble the original Portuguese, it sounds like the music itself. Brazil is all of this: the beauty of the tropical Amazonian jungle, endless beaches sprawling from Rio to the Equator, gigantic Iguaçu Falls on the border with Argentina and Paraguay, churches in the colonial style in the places with most beautiful names, such as Belo Horizonte and Porto Alegre.
Everything is alive in Brazil, and even when something is dying, there is no stopping, even for a moment. They say life is divided between the two major cities – while Sao Paolo works, Rio de Janeiro enjoys life.  That may be true, as Sao Paolo is the country’s economic hub and a huge ‘urban jungle’, but also the city where Brazilians live their ordinary everyday lives, which are hard. I prefer Brazil’s North, at the heart of Amazonia, where I observe, from a hydroplane, the confluence of the white and the black rivers, Solimões and Rio Negro, which meet at Manaus to form the largest river in the world – the Amazon. Yet, south of Rio is also exciting, where Ivo Pitanguy has his own little island on which he receives his friends, snorkels, writes books and occasionally paints.
The delights of Ipanema almost turned around in a twist of fate, giving me a warning and a premonition that the end may be closer than I thought. The mighty waves that playfully threw me up on their crest and then down to the bottom of the sea, all of a sudden would not let me go and my heart filled with the darkest apprehension.  Fatigue took possession of me and I was floating further and further away from the shore, instead of towards it. At that very moment a girl appeared on the beach and saved my life. Then, she was my girl from Ipanema.
Now she is my wife.

August 2006

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