BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA – BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Mesto na kome je poceo Prvi svetski rat-The place where the World War I started

Mesto na kome je poceo Prvi svetski rat-The place where the World War I started

Minaret i sahat kula Gazi Husrev-begove dzamije u Sarajevu-The minaret and Clock Tower of the Gazi Husrev Bey's Mosque in Sarajevo

Minaret i sahat kula Gazi Husrev-begove dzamije u Sarajevu-The minaret and Clock Tower of the Gazi Husrev Bey’s Mosque in Sarajevo

Molitva ispred Begove dzamije u Sarajevu-A preyer in front of the Bey's Mosque in Sarajevo

Molitva ispred Begove dzamije u Sarajevu-A preyer in front of the Bey’s Mosque in Sarajevo

Most preko Miljacke pored Gradske vecnice-A bridge over the Miljacka by the City Hall

Most preko Miljacke pored Gradske vecnice-A bridge over the Miljacka by the City Hall

Tradicionalna turska soba u Bosni-A traditional Turkish room in Bosnia

Tradicionalna turska soba u Bosni-A traditional Turkish room in Bosnia

Muzicki paviljon u At mejdanu-A Music pavilion in At Mejdan

Muzicki paviljon u At mejdanu-A Music pavilion in At Mejdan

Skok sa mosta u Neretvu-A jump from the bridge into the Neretva

Skok sa mosta u Neretvu-A jump from the bridge into the Neretva

Saborna crkva rodjenja presvete Bogorodice u Sarajevu-The Cathedral Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos in Sarajevo

Saborna crkva rodjenja presvete Bogorodice u Sarajevu-The Cathedral Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos in Sarajevo

Orijentalne papuce raznih boja-Colourful oriental slippers

Orijentalne papuce raznih boja-Colourful oriental slippers

Obnovljeni most u Mostaru-Rebuilt bridge in Mostar

Obnovljeni most u Mostaru-Rebuilt bridge in Mostar

Turski grobovi ispred Koski Mehmed pasine dzamije u Mostaru-Turkish graves by the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque in Mostar

Turski grobovi ispred Koski Mehmed pasine dzamije u Mostaru-Turkish graves by the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque in Mostar

Akademija lepih umetnosti na obali Miljacke-The Academy of Fine Arts on the bank of river Miljacka

Akademija lepih umetnosti na obali Miljacke-The Academy of Fine Arts on the bank of river Miljacka

Bascarsija u starom Sarajevu-Bascarsija in old Sarajevo

Bascarsija u starom Sarajevu-Bascarsija in old Sarajevo

Bascarsijska dzamija u Sarajevu-Havadza Durak Mosque in Sarajevo

Bascarsijska dzamija u Sarajevu-Havadza Durak Mosque in Sarajevo

Cuprija na Neretvi u Konjicu-A bridge over the Neretva in Konjic

Cuprija na Neretvi u Konjicu-A bridge over the Neretva in Konjic

Katedrala Isusovog srca u Sarajevu-The Cathedral of Jesus' Heart in Sarajevo

Katedrala Isusovog srca u Sarajevu-The Cathedral of Jesus’ Heart in Sarajevo

“Kakva je to zemlja koja Bosne nema”, reklo bi se, možda u žargonu,
svojstvenom samo ovom narodu i njegovom neuništivom duhu. Značenje može biti
samo jedno, a to je da jedinstvenost i iskričava duhovitost bosanskog naroda
ostaju nepromenjeni i posle rata i svega što je taj narod doživeo u svojoj
najnovijoj istoriji. Na bosanskom humoru odrasle su mnoge generacije, pa i
moja; on je ostao živ i kad je predskazivao rat, kao što je uvek umeo da
nasmeje do suza, kako pre rata, tako i posle njega.
Još kao student počeo sam često da odlazim u glavni grad, Sarajevo. To su
bile razmene studenata medicine koje sam, sa beogradske strane, ja
organizovao, a sa sarajevske, moj prijatelj, Milomir Ninković, danas jedan
od najboljih plastičnih hirurga u Evropi. Život nas je vodio različitim
putevima, ali u okviru iste struke, a Sarajevo je bilo naš životni spoj, još
od dana u kojima je sve bilo tako bezazleno. Danas se, pretežno, viđamo po
svetu, ali u taj grad odlazimo sa jakom nostalgijom za davnim danima, u
kojima smo uživo slušali legendarnu grupu “Indeksi”, odlazili na vrelo Bosne
i uživali u lokalnim specijalitetima Baščaršije, najstarijeg i najpoznatijeg
gradskog jezgra.
Ovu zemlju pamtim i sa đačkih ekskurzija, koje su uvek vodile putevima
nekadašnje narodnooslobodilačke borbe za Jugoslaviju, čiji smo deo jednom
bili. Silazak ka moru kroz hercegovačke vrleti i netaknutu prirodu ostao je
tako deo folklora mog detinjstva, u kome je Bosna imala značajnu ulogu.
Zapamtio sam Mostar iz turskih vremena, a novi sam tek nedavno video, pri
čemu mislim, svakako, na srušeni stari most i njegovu repliku. Drugi poznati
most u Višegradu centralno je mesto romana Na Drini ćuprija Ive Andrića,
jedinog nobelovca sa ovih prostora. To je  književno delo univerzalnog
značaja i riznica mudrosti ovih naroda.
Nekada sam u Sarajevo dolazio kao student, danas kao mentor i učitelj, ali
uvek sa istim osećanjem neraskidive bliskosti sa ovim ljudima i ovom
zemljom, koju smo nazivali Bosna ponosna. Ona je to i ostala i posle
poslednjeg rata u kome su izgubljeni mnogi životi. Tri naroda, koji su u
njoj živeli, nisu se mnogo obazirali na svoj identitet koji im je bio manje
važan u idiličnoj lepoti njihovog ranijeg, duhovitog življenja. Veštački
izazvani rat nije se nimalo pokazao duhovitim, ali je prošao, kao, uostalom,
i svi ratovi. Tri naroda su ostali zajedno, njihov bosanski duh i humor
ponovo su tu. Oni nemaju kuda, a i duh nije onaj iz Aladinove lampe da im
ispuni sve želje. Ali, zato duh jeste čaroban, i svojim dimom prekriva sve
one loše događaje iz prošlosti. Ispod njega izvire jedna nova, evropska
Bosna, koja nikada neće izgubiti svoj orijentalni duh i duhovnost. Druga
poznata izreka kaže: “Da nije Bosne, trebalo bi je izmisliti”.
I, zaista je tako.

Septembar 2011.
_________________________________________________________

‘Is it really a country if it has no Bosnia of its own?’ is a saying
peculiar to the Bosnian dialect and the indestructible Bosnian spirit. This
could mean only one thing – that the unique and provocative wit of the
Bosnian people has remained unchanged, even after the war and after
everything this nation had to put up with in its recent history. Many
generations, including my own, grew up with this Bosnian humour; the humour
remained in the face of war, able to make us laugh until we cried, after the
war much the same as before.
Even as a student of medicine I used to go to Sarajevo, the capital, on a
regular basis. There were student exchange trips, organised by me on the
Serbian side, and by my friend Milomir Ninković from Sarajevo, on the
Bosnian side. Today he lives and works in Munich and is widely regarded as
the best plastic surgeon in Europe. Even though our lives took different
paths, within the same profession, what brought us together was Sarajevo -in
those days when everything was peaceful and innocent. These days we usually
meet abroad, but when we do return to Sarajevo, it is with an overpowering
feeling of nostalgia for the days gone by, the times when we went to
concerts of the legendary rock band Indeksi, when we visited Spring of Bosna
as well as when we delighted in the gourmet specials of Baščaršija, the
oldest and most famous part of Sarajevo. I also remember this country from
our school trips which always followed the path of Peoples Freedom Fight for
Yugoslavia, which we used to be part of. The experience of navigating the
stark rugged cliffs of Herzegovina and its unspoilt nature on our way down
to the Adriatic Sea, remained embedded in my childhood folklore, where
Bosnia has played a big part.

I remember Mostar from the Turkish times and I’ve recently seen the new one;
by that, of course, I imply the old bridge that was bombed and its new
replica. The other famous bridge is in Višegrad, and it is the central point
of The Bridge on the Drina, a novel by Ivo Andrić, the only Nobel prize
winner from this region. This literary work has universal importance and is
a treasure of wisdom of Bosnian people.

I used to come to Sarajevo as a student, and nowadays I come as a teacher
and mentor, but each time I come it is with a strong feeling of bonding with
these people and with their country, which we used to call ‘the proud
Bosnia’. It remained proud even after the last war when many lives were
lost. The three peoples who lived in Bosnia never paid much attention to
their origins and their identity was always less important than the idyllic
beauty of their everyday, spirited life. The orchestrated war was not
spirited at all, but it passed as all wars do. The three peoples still live
together, and their Bosnian spirit and sense of humour are alive again. They
have nowhere to go anyway, and the spirit – it is not the spirit from
Aladdin’s lamp that would make all their wishes come true. But the spirit is
magical, because it covers, like with a puff of smoke, all those bad events
from the past. Underneath it, a new, European Bosnia is emerging, even
though it will never lose its Oriental charm and spirituality. Another
famous saying is: ‘If there was no Bosnia, it should be invented’.

And that is so true.

September 2011

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