BOCVANA – BOTSWANA

I nosorog se odmara-A rhino resting

I nosorog se odmara-A rhino resting

Mitska borba na nebu-A mythical battle in the sky

Mitska borba na nebu-A mythical battle in the sky

Moj sin Filip na safariju-My son Filip during a safari trip

Moj sin Filip na safariju-My son Filip during a safari trip

Nilski konji na reci Chobe-Hippos in the Chobe river

Nilski konji na reci Chobe-Hippos in the Chobe river

Poljski radovi-Working in the fields

Poljski radovi-Working in the fields

Siesta za lavove-Siesta time for the lions

Siesta za lavove-Siesta time for the lions

Slonica i slonce prelaze put-Mother and baby elephant crossing the road

Slonica i slonce prelaze put-Mother and baby elephant crossing the road

Slonovi u nacionalnom parku Chobe-Elephants in the Chobe National Park

Slonovi u nacionalnom parku Chobe-Elephants in the Chobe National Park

U zalasku sunca-At the sunset

U zalasku sunca-At the sunset

Vatreni oblaci-Fire clouds

Vatreni oblaci-Fire clouds

Zena u tradicionalnoj odeci-A woman in traditional clothes

Zena u tradicionalnoj odeci-A woman in traditional clothes

Kako da  jedna od najsiromašnijih zemalja na svetu, koja se do odlaska
Engleza iz nje 1966. godine nazivala Bečuanalend, postane bogata i stabilna
država? Recept je jednostavan: pronaći dijamante. Rudnici tog plemenitog
minerala dati su Izraelcima na eksploataciju po principu pola-pola i – svi
su zadovoljni. Znam da tako funkcioniše, i to mnogo duže, bar još jedna
zemlja: sultanat Brunei sa svojom naftom, koju deli sa kompanijom Šel.
Bocvana, veličine Francuske, ima samo 1.5 milion stanovnika i, osim
dijamanata, prema sličnoj ceni, može vam pružiti safari iz snova: šator
razapet posebno za vas na visoravni s pogledom na pojilo za afričku faunu,
uz zalazak sunca i rashlađeni šampanjac. Sve je u belom: beli šator i
kreveti, beli svileni stolnjak sa kristalnim čašama, bele presvlake na
foteljama u kojima se uživa u pogledu, samo je posluga crna. Malo se osetite
kao u nekom romansiranom filmu o Africi, možda razmišljate o tome da je čak
i Livingston ovako putovao, ali niste sigurni. Može se dogoditi da se pomalo
i osetite kao u nekoj afričkoj avanturi, kad jednog dana budete prepričavali
kako ste čuli riku u neposrednoj blizini ili videli neke čudne senke na
stranicama šatora. Ili, da vam se neki nepoznati stvor uvukao u šator. To je
Afrika koja se može i na takav način, po visokoj ceni, doživeti.
Osim zapadnjačkog načina života, kojim živi ova zemlja, moja prijateljica
Nenada Tanasić, koja je u njoj radila devet godina, priča da ovde uporedo
teče autentični afrički život, vešto prikriven. Od nje sam saznao za tajna
stvorenja, kao što je Džu-Džu, čija figurica čuva od zla, ili Tokološi, koga
niko nije video, ali ga zato svi tačno opisuju. Uz posebnu magiju, njega
možete sami da stvorite i objasnite mu kako da nanese zlo osobama koje ne
volite. Ali vrlo pažljivo, jer se može okrenuti i protiv vas. Tokološi je
nevidljiva životinja – biće za koje se kaže da nastaje iz posebnog korena
koji se može kupiti od tradicionalnog iscelitelja. Samo gospodar može da
vidi i da uspostavi vezu sa Tokološijem, koji je uvek suprotnog pola od svog
vlasnika. Uz pomoć lokalnog vrača, on vlasniku pomaže da ispuni svoje želje,
koje mogu biti i dobronamerne i zlonamerne.
Iz spisa moje prijateljice saznao sam mnogo pojedinosti o ovoj zemlji, što
nikako nisam mogao za vreme svog kratkog boravka na safariju, ali ne onom
luksuznom. Nisam čak ni posetio glavni grad Gaborone, ni kupio figuricu
Džu-Džu, mada verujem da deluje. To je afrička magija, a u nju ipak morate
verovati. Bar malo.
Možda vam se nešto i ostvari. Ili se nekom drugom ne ostvari, zavisno od
namere.

Septembar 1999.
___________________________________________________________

How did it happen that one of the poorest countries in the world, called
Bechuanaland until the British left it in 1966, became stable and rich? The
formula is simple – they found diamonds. The mining of this precious mineral
was entrusted to Israel with profit sharing of 50-50% – and everyone was
happy. I know at least one other country which has been doing the same, but
for much longer – the Sultanate of Brunei which shares its oil with Shell.
Botswana, the size of France, has only 1.5million inhabitants. Besides
diamonds, it can offer you, at a similar price, a perfect safari from your
dreams: a tent put up just for you on the highland, chilled champagne, a
view of a watering hole for the African animals, and all that at sunset.
Everything is white – white tent and white bed, white silk tablecloth with
champagne glasses, white covers on armchairs from which you enjoy the view,
only the staff are black. This makes you feel like you are in a romantic
movie about Africa, you even start thinking that Livingstone travelled that
way, but then you are not quite sure. You can also feel like you are part of
an African adventure, when one day you start retelling the story about how
you heard the lion’s roar very near you, or you saw strange looking shadows
on the side of your tent…Or maybe how an unknown creature got into your
sleeping quarters. This is Africa experienced through an expensive, luxury
holiday.
My friend, Nenada Tanasić, who has lived and worked here for nine years,
assures me that, in parallel to the Western way of living, the authentic
African way of life is everywhere, but not immediately obvious. I found out
from her about the secret creatures, such as Dzu Dzu, whose figurine
protects against evil, or Tokoloshi, that no one has ever seen, but everyone
describes it in the same way. Through special magic rites, you can create
one yourself and make it do evil to the people you do not like. But you’d
better be careful, it can turn against you. Tokoloshi is a special invisible
creature that evolves from a particular root which you can buy from a
traditional healer. Only the master can see the Tokoloshi and communicate
with it, and it is always of the opposite sex from its master. Aided by the
local witch doctor, he serves the master helping to realise his goals, no
matter if they are good or evil.
I found a lot about this country from my friend’s writings and not from my
short safari, let alone the luxurious one on which I did not go. I did not
visit the capital, Gaborone, and I did not buy a Dzu Dzu figurine, even
though I believe it can protect you. This is African magic, and you have to
believe in it. At least a little bit.
Some of your wishes may come true, or someone else’s wishes may not come
true. Depending on your intentions.

September 1999

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