AUSTRALIJA – AUSTRALIA

Koala

Koala

Koale na drvecu u Zoo vrtu-Koalas on the trees in a Zoo

Koale na drvecu u Zoo vrtu-Koalas on the trees in a Zoo

Kontrasti arhitekture-Architectual contrasts

Kontrasti arhitekture-Architectual contrasts

Krecnjacke stene 12 apostola-Limestone stacks The Twelve Apostles

Krecnjacke stene 12 apostola-Limestone stacks The Twelve Apostles

Luka Darling u Sidneju-Darling Harbour in Sydney

Luka Darling u Sidneju-Darling Harbour in Sydney

Reka Brizbejn - The Brisbane River

Reka Brizbejn – The Brisbane River

Zgrada Opere u Sidneju-Opera House in Sydney

Zgrada Opere u Sidneju-Opera House in Sydney

Farma krokodila u Darvinu-Crocodile farm in Darwin

Farma krokodila u Darvinu-Crocodile farm in Darwin

Kenguri-jedan od simbola Australije-Kangaroos-symbols of Australia

Kenguri-jedan od simbola Australije-Kangaroos-symbols of Australia

Melbourne

Melbourne

Melbourne

Melbourne

Melbourne

Melbourne

Melbourne

Melbourne

Melbourne

Melbourne

Melbourne

Melbourne

Melbourne

Melbourne

Melbourne

Melbourne

Melbourne

Melbourne

Melbourne

Melbourne

Melbourne

Melbourne

Reka Brizbejn u toku poplave-The Brisbane River flooding

Reka Brizbejn u toku poplave-The Brisbane River flooding

Kad su novinari, nekada davno, pitali našu najdražu pesnikinju Desanku
Maksimović zašto je putovala u Australiju, odakle se upravo vratila sa
pesničkih večeri, kratko je odgovorila:”Da vidim, naravno, kengure”. Zar
postoji bolji razlog za posetu toj zemlji-kontinentu, osim ako vam tamo ne
žive generacije predaka ili, možda, želite da vidite još neke
karakteristične izdanke lokalnog životinjskog carstva kao što su koala, emu
ili dingo. Australija, naravno, nije samo to. Potomci davnih britanskih
izgnanika sigurno mogu mnogo šta da ponude, a njihovo prirodno okruženje i
mnogo više. Australijski širaz je, na primer, jedno od najboljih vina.
Hrana, nažalost, podseća na englesku, ali su je orijentalni narodi, koji
tamo žive, ipak malo unapredili. Urbani ambijent veoma je amerikanizovan,
ali ipak ima neku neobjašnjivu crtu po kojoj se razlikuje i kao da želi da
kaže: “Mi smo drugačiji”. Nisu, naravno, svi Australijanci potomci Engleza
osuđenika; bilo je tu i poštenog sveta koji je pobegao od siromaštva davnih
godina ili, nešto kasnije, ratova, i oni ovoj zemlji daju neki poseban ukus,
a ponekad i gorčinu. Svi ovde naizgled srećno žive, daleko i predaleko od
svojih stvarnih postojbina, a mnogi od njih sa nekom potisnutom tugom i
osećanjem da se tamo daleko nikada više neće vratiti.
Ali, da ne bih lamentirao više nad tim sudbinama, jer zaista nemam nikoga ko
se iselio u tu zemlju, vratio bih se radije kengurima i koalama. To osećanje
kada vam koala bezbrižno leži na ramenu i čvrsto se drži šapicama sa tri
velike kandže, koje ne mogu da vas povrede jer su koale nežne, dakle to
osećanje je ravno maloj nirvani. Samo sam ga jednom doživeo, jer su posle
prestali da turistima daju koale na držanje, ali ću ga uvek pamtiti. To je
bilo na velikoj završnoj zabavi tokom svetskog kongresa plastičnih hirurga u
Sidneju. Na sličnoj manifestaciji, pet godina kasnije u Melburnu, dobio sam
da držim na ruci pticu koja se zove kukubara i koja baš tako nešto izgovara.
Simpatična je, ali ipak nije kao koala, koju mi ovog puta nisu dali, iako
sam to veoma želeo. Kengur nije baš za držanje, emu je redak i skriven, a
“tasmanijski đavo” živi na Tasmaniji, do koje nisam stigao, iako nije daleko
od Melburna i ima, kažu, najčistiji vazduh na svetu.
Beli doseljenici nedavno su se zvanično izvinili crnim starosedeocima,
Aboridžinima, zbog višedecenijskog nepravednog odnosa prema njima, što je
naišlo na pravo odobravanje u svetu. Neko je predložio da i Englezi urade to
isto, samo bi tada njihova lista izvinjenja morala biti neuporedivo veća.
Naravno, odbili su s negodovanjem.
Veliki koralni sprud je deo aboridžinskog sna, u kome njihovi preci stvaraju
svet. To je izuzetna prirodna lepota, koja se ne može lako opisati i koja se
pruža od Kernsa na severu do Brizbejna na jugu države Kvinslend. Dve hiljade
kilometara koralnih grebena, peščanih plaža i kristalno bistre vode ubraja
se u najlepša mesta na svetu. Zato mi Brizbejn prija više od ostalih
gradova, jer je na granici tropskog pojasa i sa vrlo prijatnom klimom. Grad
je veoma moderan u nekim delovima, a opet u tome nenametljiv. Ima i gradski
prevoz na reci, kao na Velikom kanalu u Veneciji. Teško je to porediti, ali
ne mogu sva mesta biti Stari svet. I gde bi se tada ljudi iz njega
iseljavali, ako ne u neki Novi svet, i tako vekovima dok i on nekome ne
postane Stari svet.
A tada više ništa neće biti novo.

Avgust 2003.
_______________________________________________________________

A long time ago, as she had just returned from her poetry reading tour,
Desanka Maksimović, our beloved poetess was asked by journalists why she had
visited Australia. She replied: “Why, to see the kangaroos of course!” What
could be a better reason to visit this continent-country, unless your
ancestors lived there, or you would like to see other unique species of the
local fauna such as koala, emu or dingo. Of course, that’s not all there is
to Australia! The descendants of the British who had been exiled long ago,
and, especially, the natural surroundings, offer so much more. Australian
Shiraz is one of the best wines to be had; the food unfortunately, resembles
the typical English grub, however, the influence of the various oriental
cuisines has somewhat improved it. Urban city areas are very Americanized,
yet there is an inexplicable uniqueness about them, almost shouting: ‘We are
different!’ Of course, not all Australians descended from the British
convicts, there had been many respectable people who fled the poverty of the
olden days, or, more recently escaped from the wars. They, in particular,
give a special flavour to this country, sometimes tinted with bitterness.
Seemingly, they all live here happily, too far away from their true
homelands, many of them hiding a homesickness and a sinking feeling that
they would never return.
I should not lament the fate of these immigrants, as in real life I know no
one who has emigrated to Australia. I’d rather go back to the koalas and the
kangaroos. The feeling I had when a koala, blithely sitting on my shoulder,
held tight on to me with its paws, was close to nirvana. Despite the three
big claws on each paw, koalas cannot hurt you, they are ever so gentle. I
experienced this special feeling only once, as they have stopped letting
tourists touch the koalas, but I will never forget it. This was at the
closing gala of the World Congress of Plastic Surgeons, in Sydney. Five
years later, on a similar occasion in Melbourne, I was given a cucubara bird
to hold on my arm; the call of cucubara sounds just like its name. The bird
was quite sweet, but was not a match for a koala, which I could not get hold
of this time, no matter how much I tried. Kangaroos are not really for
holding in your arms, emus are rare and furtive, and the ‘Tasmanian devil’
inhabits Tasmania which I have not had a chance to visit, even though it is
not far from Melbourne and is said to have the cleanest air on Earth.
The white settlers have recently officially apologised to the indigenous
people, the Aborigines, for decades of unfair treatment, a move warmly
welcomed around the world. Someone suggested that the British did the same,
however their list of apologies would be incomparably long. Of course, they
refused with indignation.
The Great Barrier Reef is part of an Aboriginal myth about the making of the
world by their ancestors. The Reef is of outstanding natural beauty that is
hard to describe, stretching from Cairns in the North to Brisbane in the
South of Queensland. Two thousand kilometres of coral reef, sandy beaches
and crystal clear sea water, are amongst the most beautiful places in the
world. That is why I find Brisbane more agreeable than the rest, as it lays
close to the tropics and has a very pleasant subtropical climate. Some parts
of the city are very modern, yet not in your face. Also, there are river
boats like on the Grand Canal in Venice. It is difficult to compare Brisbane
with Venice, yet not all places can belong to the Old world. And where would
the immigrants go, if not to a brave new world? Carrying on for centuries,
until this new world has become old too.
And then – nothing would be new anymore, to anyone.

August 2003

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