ANTIGVA I BARBUDA – ANTIGUA AND BARBUDA

Dokovi admirala Nelsona-Nelson's Dockyards

Dokovi admirala Nelsona-Nelson’s Dockyards

Engleska telefonska govornica na plazi-English telephone box on the beach

Engleska telefonska govornica na plazi-English telephone box on the beach

Jasna podrska-Clear support

Jasna podrska-Clear support

Muzej - Museum

Muzej – Museum

Nelsonova kuca i muzej-Nelson's house and museum

Nelsonova kuca i muzej-Nelson’s house and museum

Pogled na Englesku luku-A view of the English Harbour

Pogled na Englesku luku-A view of the English Harbour

Prodavacica na plazi-Beach vendor

Prodavacica na plazi-Beach vendor

Tirkizne vode Antigve-Turquoise waters of Antigua

Tirkizne vode Antigve-Turquoise waters of Antigua

Udobnost pre svega-Comfort first

Udobnost pre svega-Comfort first

Ugledavši ga sa svog broda, u prolazu, Kolumbo je ovaj predeo nazvao po
jednoj crkvi u Sevilji. Tako se ovo latino ime našlo u zemlji u kojoj skoro
samo Englezi provode svoj odmor, uživajući u tirkiznom moru i belim peščanim
plažama. Ljubazni, ali ne previše, lokalni stanovnici s ponosom će vas
uputiti u najznačajniji deo ostrva na jugu, koji se naziva Engleska luka ili
Nelsonovi dokovi. Taj danas istorijski pomorski muzej nastao je u XVIII
veku, u vreme borbi za nadmoć u Karipskom moru izmedju flota velikih sila:
Engleske, Francuske, Španije i Portugalije. Admiral Horacije Nelson bio je
neprikosnoveni vođa koji je ovde učvrstio britansku vlast za sva vremena.
Šećerna trska i začini bili su glavni proizvodi oko kojih su se tada vodili
ratovi na Karibima, a u dubokim uvalama na jugu ostrva, Nelsonovi brodovi
našli su potpunu zaštitu. Gigantski kameni stubovi služili su za vezivanje
jedrenjaka, koji su tu nalazili utočište od pogubnih uragana, a stare kamene
građevine, nekada krčme, lučke zgrade i konjušnice, pretvorene su danas u
prodavnice, restorane i hotel u autentičnom stilu britanskih kolonijalnih
luka. Umesto drvenih jedrenjaka, danas tu pristaju luksuzne jahte i
katamarani na krstarenju po Karipskom moru. Pojavom parnih brodova ovo
sklonište jedrenjaka gubi značaj, kao i čitav region, tako da krajem XIX
veka biva zatvoreno, a tek pedesetih godina XX veka udruženje prijatelja
Engleske luke počinja obnovu tog istorijskog objekta i pretvara ga u
Nacionalni park. Admiralova kuća, skladište u džordžijanskom stilu i
utvrđenje na ulasku u zaliv danas turistima samo svedoče o burnim vremenima
ratovanja na Karibima. Sa obližnjeg brda pruža se nezaboravan vidik na taj
zaliv, s pogledom na malo poluostrvo, za koje će vam taksista sa ponosom
reći da pripada čuvenom gitaristi Eriku Kleptonu. Pogled sa tog mesta
upozoravao je na dolazak pirata ili drugih neprijatelja, a danas beli
stanovnici svake nedelje tu priređuju piknik, sa mnogo ruma i muzike. Jedan
podijum za rege bend, drugi za limene instrumente, ogroman šank i beskrajan
pogled do ostalih karipskih ostrva u izmaglici: vulkanski Montserat,
francuski Gvadalupe i Sveti Kristofer.
Tu je negde i Barbuda, drugi i nešto manje popularan deo ove ostrvske
zajednice, jedna od pedeset četiri ponosne pripadnice britanskog Komonvelta.

Novembar 2008.
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When he first saw these islands from aboard his ship, Columbus named them
after a cathedral in Seville. This is how a Latino name strayed into this
country, which is frequented, almost exclusively, by vacationing Brits, who
enjoy its turquoise sea and its white sandy beaches. The locals are
approachable but not more than that, when they proudly direct you towards
the most important, Southern part of the island, called the ‘English
harbour’ or ‘Nelson’s dockyard’. Today a historical maritime museum, this
was a naval station established in the 18th century at the time of fighting
for the Caribbean Sea supremacy, between the naval superpowers – Britain,
France, Spain and Portugal. Admiral Horatio Nelson, an unstoppable naval
commander, established a firm British rule once and for all. Sugarcane and
spice were the main reasons for the battles in the Caribbean; Nelson’s
sailing ships had found their shelter in the deep-water harbours of the
South – they were tied to the gigantic stone pillars thereby escaping the
deathly hurricanes. Old stony buildings, inns, stables and dockside
buildings have all been turned into shops, restaurants and hotels in the
authentic colonial style.
These days, instead of wooden sailing ships, luxurious yachts and catamarans
moor here, taking a break during their Caribbean cruise. With the advance of
steamboats, the entire region as well as this sailing ship shelter, lost
their importance and at the end of the 19th century the harbour was closed
down. Only in the 1950s did the English Harbour Friends Association
instigate the restoration of this historical site when they turned it into a
National park. The Admiral’s house, a Georgian style The Copper and Lumber
Store, and a fortress on the approach to the bay, all bear witness to the
turbulent times of the Caribbean wars. From a neighbouring hill you can get
an unforgettable view of the bay, including a small peninsula, which, a cab
driver informs me, belongs to rock star Eric Clapton. This hill was used as
an observation post from where the approaching pirates or other enemies
could be spotted, while today it is picnic grounds for the island’s white
population, who come here every Sunday bringing lots of rum and music. There
is one stage for a reggae band and another one for a brass orchestra, an
enormous bar and a view stretching far away, to the misty Caribbean islands
– the volcanic Montserrat, the French Guadalupe and St. Kitts.
Somewhere in the distance is Barbuda too, the other, slightly less popular
member of this insular union and one of the 54 proud Commonwealth Nations.

November 2008

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